The first step in any project is to categorize and prioritize the list,
normally I select an A, B, and C list. Normally before departing on a trip all
of the A and B list items are finished. This time I am working up to deck
painting so anything which impacts the deck painting ends up in the high
priority list. Since the decks will most likely be painted in the slip but the
hull will be painted during haul out this results in a second list.
Things to do before deck painting:
- [ 100% Complete] Remove
all deck hardware (Almost everything is off the decks,
still have to remove forward hatch, dorade boxes, steering system, and some
other small things), Forward hatch removed, port dorade box removed,
steering system removed, leaving a dorade box, companionway hatch jams and
some other small pieces.
- [ 100% Complete] Install
new Rub Rail (Tom found a wonderful source of material which is
now installed but needs to now be removed for painting, still need to find
clean solution to cover aft ends of rub rail, the remaining 5%)
- [ 100% Complete] Remove New Rub Rail and Store
- [ 100% Complete] Remove
Solon Portlights (Outer frames removed from coach roof
[12/21/03], Digging out the Lexcell sealant around the existing Lexan, all
should be out soon, Lexan Removed and sent to shop 1/7/2004)
- [100% Complete] Fabricate
new Solon Portlight Lenses (Located sheet of 1/2 inch thick Lexan
MR10 and the shop can cut out the pieces using the existing portlights as a
template, anticipated return of portlight lenses 1/9/2004 but Lexan Sheet
was damaged upon arrival at "Plastics Depot" they have ordered a
new sheet. Completion of cutting expected 1/13/2004, Completed 1/16/2004)
- [ 100% Complete] New gate stanchion
Old gate stanchion is at Riley Stainless, they are fabricating a new one
4/20/04 (Found damaged gate stanchion, will take to Riley Stainless next week to
make a new one)
- [ 100% Complete] Rebuild stern pulpit
Riley looked at stern pulpit and recommended complete replacement as a
better solution, just too many places where it has been tweaked. Having
cockpit seats added to new design. (Stern Pulpit is off the boat and ready to take to Riley)
- Forward and Aft Lowers are mounted on
vertical bulkheads and don't have a fare run to the stay, is it
possible to wedge or shim the bulkhead to match the angle of the shroud?
- Permanent attachment point for running backstays?
(Perhaps new chainplates half way back from the existing aft lowers to make
a good place to attach the running backstays?)
- [100% Complete] Roller
Furler on Inner Forestay? (Decided against it based on the
foredeck being the only reasonable place to inflate a large dingy)
- [ 95% Complete] Replace below decks steering gear to remove run across
to hull (Looks like will have to replace entire
steering system except the quadrant on the rudder post to solve this
problem, the additional storage space alone makes up for a significant
amount of trouble, All below decks equipment removed 12/30/2004, working on
replacement system). Replacement Edson system has arrived (4/10/04) starting
to modify mounting locations for the larger sheaves. 10/1/04 Final
testing of installation, sheave installation on heavy plywood frame to
verify performance and installation. Winter 2004-2005 will see a new steel
frame installed to complete the installation.
- [ 50% Complete] Move cockpit mounted bilge pump to make
dingy storage easier Pump removed, hole glassed up, need to
reinstall in new location
- [ 100% Complete] Repair
decks where old deck penetrations need permanent fixes (glass over
existing holes which need patched)
- Cockpit actuated autopilot clutch lockout
(This is simply a switch in the autopilot clutch circuit to allow immediate
and permanent disengagement of the below decks autopilot for emergency maneuvers
or when the vane is steering the boat)
- Wash down pump outlet on foredeck
- Fresh water shower in cockpit
- [ 100% Complete] Install
new hatch in Head 10"x10" hole cut in deck 1/10/2004,
built ring to make deck locally flat 1/11/2004, need to complete and fair
the ring and attach to deck, 1/18/2004 finished ring and epoxied down to
deck, need to complete final filleting and sanding. All paint work complete,
just need to bolt down the hatch after the last of the painting is complete.
- [ 35% Complete] Install remote mike in cockpit
(Have remote mike and it works, need to select installation location),
decided to install remote mike in the new Edson binnacle.
- [ 100% Complete] Better installation of propane control
solenoid
(Install in small locker, just a small locker for the propane regulator and solenoid
) , obtained a pelican dry
box and built up solenoid control, glassed up existing holes in cockpit,
once new binnacle is installed can make final installation. Long term
considering building a locker inside the transom for the propane bottles.
- [100% Complete] Verify operation of RLB23 beacon, battery now
13 years old, specified life is 10, replace battery or remove unit?
(Cost of new battery is very high $600, so removed self launching storage
from deck and sealed holes), Verified that the unit no longer functions,
removed completely will dissect unit for interest.
- [ 100% Complete] Refurbish Lighthouse Windlass
(Preventative Maintenance since off boat) (Sent to Lighthouse 01/21/2004),
Windlass came back looking like new. Replaced leaking seals, re-greased gear
box, some new bearings (showed light wear but are inexpensive while in the
unit), drive motor has new sealing technology and protective cover
- [ 80% Complete] Chain Counter and Reverse Switch for Windlass?
(Chain Counter is about $500, Reversing switch assembly $500, may go for it
to make it easier for me to keep track of how much chain is out and be able
to complete lowering the chain from the cockpit), purchased both, the
reversing solenoid box is installed in the chain locker. Remote/chain
counter will be installed on the binnacle.
- Upgrade diesel engine intake filter and air source
(Portion which impacts the stern deck needs to be taken into account before
painting)
- [ 100% Complete] Upgrade
Genoa Cars with Harken Ball Bearing System? (Currently planning to
use Harken Big Boat cars to match the traveler, remaining question is how
far forward to carry the track and then order the components) (Naw, decided
the current system will be fine for the time being.
- [ 100% Complete] Monitor Vane Control lines through cockpit floor?
(Naw, like it accessible)
- [ 90% Complete] Move
Sailing instruments and glass up holes, move above companionway on seahood
(Instruments removed, holes glassed up, need to modify seahood to handle
instruments. Question, will it be better to just buy a remote monitor for
the wind point so all I have to run to the seahood is seatalk buss?),
instruments removed, holes are glassed up, some instruments will move to
binnacle, some to an additional pod ABOVE the sea hood which will require no
sea hood modifications.
- [ 100% Complete] Sand decks smooth (remove old
non-skid and then use grit to provide traction in new paint)
- [ 99% Complete] Paint Decks with LP
(Decks all have build coats of LP, final coats will be applied after
returning from the boat yard to prevent scratches and damage in the yard
from being an issue. There are three remaining areas to put two coats of
non-skid on. Sea Hood, companionway hatch, and cockpit locker.
Things to do before Hauling for Hull Painting
- Replace transom exhaust fitting (add shut off valve?)
- New stern light
- [ 100% Complete] Remove Monitor Self Steering Vane
- [ 100% Complete] Remove Hull Numbers and Stickers
- [ 100% Complete] Determine Correct Cutless Bearing (it
is one of two possibilities, perhaps just order both and return one?),
ordered both, turned out to be the 2" diameter bearing (Dogfish)
- [ 100% Complete] Obtain PSS Replacement Bellows
- [ 100% Complete] Determine best approach to seal kelp guard
mounting holes Obtained
4 silicon bronze bolts, 5/8" diameter, 3 inches long with a shoulder
which is about 1/8" less than the hull thickness in the keel. Large (a
little less than 2" diameter) bronze washers on the inside and outside
of the hull with a bronze nut on the back. The entire setup beaded heavily
in 3M 5200.
- Install rollers on dock and new rub guards to
protect paint
- Purchase Copper communications ground plate
Things to do while hauled for Hull Painting
- [ 100% Complete] Grease Rudder Post
- [ 100% Complete] Replace Cutless Bearing
- Install copper communications plate
- [ 100% Complete] Permanently seal kelp guard mounting holes
- [ 100% Complete] Minor Blister Repair
- [ 100% Complete] Replace PSS bellows
- [ 100% Complete] Rebuild MaxProp
- [ 100% Complete] Paint Hull with LP,
Currently (5/9/04) there are three coats of LP on the hull, there was a
minor missed spot which I had to touch up, will determine this week if it is
good enough or if the hull needs one more coat.
- [ 100% Complete] Bottom Paint,
6 Coats of Micron Extra with Biolux are being applied. The color scheme is 1
coat of red, 1 coat of green, 2 coats of black, 2 coats of blue. Should be
ready to reblock the hull on Thursday 5/13/04 and apply all 6 coats of
Micron Extra to the cradle stands and keel.
-
Things to do once back in the slip
- [ 100% Complete] Bed new rub rail
- [ 100% Complete] Reinstall Deck Hardware
- [ 100% Complete] Reinstall Portlight Lenses
-
Other Projects to complete
"A" List
- Replace engine Exhaust System
- [ 100% Complete] Replace cooling fan in Freedom 20
- [ 100% Complete] Flush engine coolant loop
- Clean out heat exchanger
- New aft lifelines
- New topping lift
- Finish mainsail outhaul
- Rebuild head
- Replace impeller in raw water pump
- [ 50% Complete] Change Transmission Oil,
To get to coupling had to split transmission and V-Drive so oil got changed.
- [ 100% Complete] Change Motor Oil
- [ 100% Complete] Repair ST600R remote autopilot control
(One wire needs soldered back down on the circuit board)
- Finish installing drawer & locker locks on all
doors
- Finish wine rack installation to secure wine on port
tack
- [ 100% Complete] Replace Propane sensor
- Rewire and complete nav station
-
"B" List
- Rebuild Watermaker (Do I
install the seal kit myself or send it to the manufacturer for a general
going through?)
- Repack Liferaft (Send to the
manufacturer)
- Install new engine shutdown solenoid
- Install manual discharge for engine room fire extinguisher
(Need to purchase remote release)
- Soundproofing in engine room
- Build permanent holders for dishware
- [ 100% Complete] Equalize Batteries, refurbish battery box
- Improved securing of starting batteries
- [100% Complete] Verify proper mounting of Gyro+ unit for Autopilot
(Verified, the cable is to come out of the bottom of the unit)
- Rig secondary flux gate compass with crossover
switch
- HF electrical interference into Link 2000R Energy
Monitor System
- Complete installation of file server
-
"C" List
- [ 100% Complete] Variable speed fresh water pump?
(Tom has one on Alegria and it is just wonderful!)
- Seal off forward chain locker bilges
- Provide easy method to moved 300' of chain aft from
chain locker and still be accessible
- Replace cylinder head gasket?
(It has always wept a bit of oil when the engine is heat soaked, not a
problem, just annoying)
- Replace motor mounts (They
are about 8 years old and it is probably time)
- Install pump to drain wet exhaust
(Prevents water ending up in the exhaust manifold after a roll over, also
prevents backup of water if the engine is cranked too long)
- Serpentine Belt for Alternator?
(Was an option available from Perkins shop, decided to stick with stock
installation of 1/2 inch belt)
- Install small freshwater tank for head intake
- Lazy Jacks
- HF radio speaker
- Complete surround sound system
(The surround sound decoder I am currently testing is made by Creative Labs,
it is their "Extigy" line and drives the speakers through 12V car
stereo amplifiers. Now I have to select the new speakers and a sub woofer
for a real splashing experience)
- Shorten head stay extrusion by 1 - 2 inches
(When backstay tension is loose there is not much clearance at the masthead
and it would be nice to move the "wrapstop" down a couple of
inches, it has never failed but it is not exactly like I would like it)
- Motor Oil Management system, waste oil tank, fresh
oil tank, etc. (Secondary oil filter already plumbed
and online with valving?)
- Exhaust manifold to head gasket (slightly warped manifold?)
- Dingy storage aft?
- Layout for APU? (With the
confirmation that wind generators just don't produce the kind of power at
sea which Botany Bay needs [On a mooring charging up for weekend use worked
well] I am looking at putting in a "Auxiliary Power Unit". These
are basically a large alternator (100 - 150Amps in this case) coupled with a
small diesel engine (5-8HP) to provide charging) I feel that for offshore
sailing some kind of backup power source is necessary.
- Dimmer circuits for main solon
(West Marine sells some very nice 12V dimming circuits. With a bit of work I
think I can get these to do what I would like)
- Plywood overhead in forward cabin like main solon
- New hull liner material in quarter
berth (Have the material and the glue, just need
to finish up the job)
- Cosmetic work on front of fridge
- Replace wooden sliders in head with acrylic mirror
- Route hull access ports in head floor to make them
level (Quick job with a router, needs to be done before
have final carpet pieces made)
- Install access port in floor over knot meter probe
- Oil teak below decks
- Replace florescent indirect lighting with halogen
or something which does not buzz and can be dimmed
- Paint insides of lockers
- Upgrade flat panel display in main cabin and move
15 inch display to forward cabin (Zenith 23" Widescreen?)
- Cushion for sitting in companionway hatch
- Repair original Microwave and swap back out with temporary
unit (Or purchase new unit, want to have the convection
microwave like what I removed, saw one in Home Depot which looks like it
might fit and has all the right features)
- Clean and wax mast (Need way
to get myself up and down the mast comfortably to make this job easy)
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Revised: September 30, 2004
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