| Winter Projects 2010 | ||
| With the completion of
the 2010 Cat Harbor Cruise with the Corsair Yacht Club it is time to
get on with the larger winter projects. This summer with the boat has
been a joy even if there were many projects in various levels of
completeness. That said, I know understand the boat pretty well and can
focus on getting some of the larger projects completed. 1) The first of the major projects will be having the rig rebuilt. The plan is to pull the spar, take every fitting off and remove all of the screws, bolts, plates, etc, strip off all of the original paint and then rebuild the spar. This will also entail replacing all of the standing rigging and assuming the project does not horribly overrun it's cost budget I will plan on replacing the running rigging also. 1A) [100% Complete] Pull the rig out of the boat and get to the shop 1B) [100% Complete] Remove the mast step and deck collar and send to the shop for stripping and painting The step bolts have been broken loose and the step itself is loose. Need to understand the material that the threaded bolts are going into to ensure that when I rebed them I do not cause galvanic problems. The stainless bolts which were in contact with the aluminum step and have been damp (mostly with rainwater though) show no signs of corrosion. Down in the machine threaded holes it appears to be that below the fiberglass there is a tan colored substance (steel according to Oyster) into which the step bolts are threaded. The threads of the bolts are extremely clean although the "stickyness" of the threading of the bolts suggests something other than metal as the bolts required significant torque to back them out even after they had been initially broken loose. There appeared to be no indication of moisture down the holes and they are definitely blind holes. I will sent e-mail to Oyster to find out how the step was built up originally. It turns out that there is a piece of thick (3/4" steel?) buried in the fiberglass. Oyster's recomemndation is to bed the bolts with Sika to avoid issues in the furture and add washers under the bolt heads. 1C) [100% Complete] Determine which type of mechanical end fittings to use on the wire. I have been a strong advocate for mechanical wire terminations on the prior vessel as well as re-rigging several friends vessels. I have not had any experience with these terminations on wire this large however. There is definitely an increased cost of using these fittings (Stayloc, Norseman, and HiMod), however, the ability to replace a piece of wire anywhere wire is available is definitely attractive for extended cruising. Additionally, while I have seen failed swages on many vessels, broken wires have not been common. Thus I personally feel more comfortable with the long term stability of these types of fitting. The question is now a matter of which of the three fitting type to use. The backstay insulators already installed are the Norseman variety and if re-useable might have swayed the choice. However, at first look there may be some cracks in the Norseman backstay insulators. An interesting alternative is to use the newer HiMod fittings, while the HiMod backstay insulators are significantly more expensive they do not hae the failure mode of cracked insulator material resulting in a broken stay. Probably in the end the choice will be driven by which fittings more cleanly work with the connections to the mast. The final choice was a combination of the following factors: I have used Sta-Lok on three vessels in the future having made up the wires myself An old (2000) "Practical Sailor" article suggests that for a wire strength of 8000lbs, Norseman achieved 7300lbs and started breaking individual strands, Staylock achieved 8000lbs and started to break strands, HiMod achieved 8000 and started to slip. Even if the slipping is at a higher tension I prefer to see that it is failing. It is interesting that the article is the only one who has looked at this in detail and the article itself notes this is smaller wire and that it is far too small of a statistical sampling to draw any conclusions. However, the first Norseman they made up achieved 60% of wire strength prior to individual wire strands starting to fail and then after the distributor was contacted the distributor made up a sample which held to 80% of the wire strength before breaking strands. Perhaps it was some interaction with the way the setup was created but disconcerting. Oyster now uses Sta-lok fittings as the default for vessels 575 and below The existing roller furlers have integral sta-loc fittings (i.e. the rig will all be the same fitting) The Norseman backstay insulators had cracks in them and were not reuseable (not a failing of the norseman just a factor) Brion Toss's website says good things about the sta-lok fittings (He currently prefers the HiMod fittings though) 1D) [100% Complete] Determine if the original Hood headsail furling gear can be salvaged, these units are in fact quite large. The systems appear to be working quite well and operate smoothly. However, to get them apart and replace the stay is always a risk. If not reuseable I will have to make a determination about which furling gear to use, most likely either the newest Harken products or the Profurl products. The existing hood furling gear appears to be in very good condition, will plan to reuse these Both headsail furlers have had the internal rigging wire replaced and minor improvements made to keep these serviceable (hopefully until the next replacement of rigging wire sometime around 2020) 1E) [100% Complete] All three sails have been sent to the Costa Mesa North Sails loft for evaluation. All of the sails appear to be "Hood" sails of unknown vintage, the Yankee and Staysail are both "Bi-Radial" cut and the headsail has a padded foam luff. I am not sure if these observations can date the sail. The mainsail has three vertical battens which ar about 36 inches long. The top batten has a significant amount of twist around the axis. Perhaps a new batten would help things to furl a bit easier. Update: 11/02/2010 North sails loft notes that the sails are in very good condition and recommend refurbishment of the existing sails, should have quote shortly, need to determine if the luff tape would change from the current tape for either harken or profurl upgrade if something gets damaged during installation. If not, turn them loose with sail repair. Need to decide if I want the sails cleaned, hopefully the cost is not too high. Would like to add the sail number 5519 under the oyste logo (or new Oyster Logo) to provide a unique number. After the above discussion the loft removed the existing blue sunbrella cover and then called to tell me that the sail was not reasonable to put the cost into. I have collected the sail and I am currently trying to determine what the next step will be. The Mainsail and Staysail seem to have survived the trip to the loft. Update: 3/15/2011 Kettenhoffen Sail Loft did a great job of rebuilding the Yankee, the bulk of the cloth was still in excellent shape, by carefully reworking the sun damaged areas and then using UV Dacron to reinforce these areas I have a sail which is now holding up very nicely and at a very reasonable cost. 1F) [100% Complete] Mast Light Replacement Plan to use a Lopalight LED masthead trycolor/anchor light. Lopolight part number is 200-007 (tricolor + anchor light for 39 ft to 65 ft vessels) For various reasons I decided that the AquaSignal light is a better option, Oyster is currently fitting this light on new vessels Not sure what to do with the steaming light and foredeck light yet as these are in a fixture on the front of the mast, Lopalight does make a nice one but it makes the tricolor look inexpensive! Due to the steaming light only being used while the engine is running I will stick to the current incandencent bulb arrangement as power is not an issue. Had planned to replace the spreader light bulbs keeping the aerodynamic fixtures but the bulbs are sealed beams so I will use them as is. Note that the starboard side light is not currently working SeaTek managed to get the old lights out, they are a very tight "press fit" and had to break the existing bulbs out to be able to rebuild the lower spreaders. Both bulbs are now new and they provided a spare. Note that a friend of mine points out that these are small aircraft landing lights and that LED versions are now available for about $200 each. I expect to replace them when these burn out. Would like to add "accent lights" to the rig to light up the mast from the top of the spreaders if it can be done cleanly Decided to delay this until some future time. Planning on a light on the aft end of the boom and a light for the cockpit on the boom. Decided to add accent lights in the sugar scoop stern and the cockpit will get a bimini soon and the light on the bottom of the boom would not be useful. Better to keep the wire out of the boom 1G) [100% Complete] The original wire in the mast is not tinned, however, it appears to be in very good condition and has a double jacket coating. With the navigation lights being 24V and going to be LED based the size of the wire will not be an issue Plan to replace all of the wire with tinned "Anchor" wire duplex with double covers. Done, there are a total of 11 different wires going up the mast now! RG213 - Masthead VHF/AIS antenna RG213 - Masthead Cell Phone #14 Triplex - Masthead Tricolor/Anchor light #14 Triplex - Spare Masthead wiring Cat 6e Ethernet - Masthead for various uses Masthead wind instrument wire #14 Duplex - Port Spreader Light #14 Duplex - Stbd Spreader Light #14 Duplex - Steaming Light #14 Duplex - Foredeck light RG213 - VHF antenna just below radar #14 Duplex - Loud Hailer right above Radar RG59 - TV antenna just under Radar 1H) [100% Complete] Looking into using "Spartight" in place of the original wedges at the mast partners. Not clear if this will work cleanly but it definitely would keep the moisture from running down the outside of the mast. Definitely will use Spartight Required just over 3 kits (one kit was a bit crystalized so might be able to use 3 cans (1.5 large kits or 3 small kits) Spar-Tight is completely finished, however, I do need to make a UV cover which can keep the minor leak at bay. In a torrential downpour I do get a very slow leak around the mast. Otherwise it is tight. 1I) [100% Complete] Need to decide on the color to paint the mast, Allan says that the most common color is matterhorn white but will come by the boat and look at the deck color as the deck is not the original oyster color scheme. (i.e. teak decks removed) Awlgrip Matterhorn white, paint schedule as follows: Media blast to bare aluminum Awlgrip ### Bare Aluminum Etch 2 Coats Awlgrip ### Zinc Cromate Primer 2 Coats Awlgrip ### Matterhorn white 2) [100% Complete] The second project is to get the forward head rebuild completed. 2A) The basic components are all in place now 2B) [100% Complete] Paint inside of lockers in forward cabin where holding tank, pumps, and plumbing are to be installed The painting of the associated lockers which did not go well, for some reason some of the gel-coat (west marine brand) did not cure properly. It almost appears that it was some kind of surface contamination which inhibited the curing of the gelcoat as much of the material that did cure lost it's gloss. So, I will be sanding again, this time I am going to use Interlux 404/414 epoxy primer as a base and then White interlux bilge coat. Hopefully this will work better. Once the painting is completed the holding tank project can continue. The result was that there are various touch up paints which have been used over the years on these lockers. After completely re-prepping the locker I wiped down the locker with a SLIGHTLY DAMP rag with the 2333N thinner for Interlux two part polyurithane paints. The result was several areas becomming tacky. I called Interlux and their advice was to use the one part "PrimeCote" as a conversion coat to stabilize the paint system. However, this primer will not deal with new expoy which has not had the amine blush removed completely. If I have any trouble they recommend using the two part primer on the epoxy and the one part primer for the other areas. Finally I used white "Bilge Coat" which resulted in a very hard surface. The final state is that the process recommended by Interlux worked perfectly! The white "Bilge Cote" is a very hard paint and has a very nice gloss. This effort is now complete. 2C) [ 95% Complete] There is some cosmetic work in the forward head (mostly new formica to cover holes from the previous head installation) and some glueing down of loose teak veners in a couple of places. 2D) [ 95% Complete] Forward head shower sump and sink drains. Currently these use a pump directly connected to one or the other. The goal is to have the forward head being "non-boater guest proof" (or friendly depending on your perspective) and basically be just like being ashore. Was able to use a single whale IC series grey water pump mounted under the hall floor and the bright yellow manifold is under the floor in the head. The sink and shower sump drain into the same manifold and work amazingly well together with minimal noise. 2E) [100% Complete] The holding tank is now completely installed with two independent electric Whale Gulper pumps 2F) [100% Complete] Installed the Groco "Sweet Tank" system to ariate the sewage and avoid smell. The humm of the pump is enough to disturb some guests sleep in the forward cabin. I may relocate the pump to the chain locker eventually to get rid of the noise. 3) [ 50% Complete] Completing the varnish in the forward part of the boat (including the cabin sole) will be a priority once these tasks are completed. The idea being that once the forward part of the boat is complete I will move into the forward cabin while the aft cabin and aft head get remodeled and upgraded. 4) [ 0% Complete] Hopefully Mastervolt will release their "Multitap" version of their 7KW switch mode isolation transformer so I can get the electrical system upgrade underway. After two years Mastervolt says the device is not yet out of engineering... This is unfortunate as I have been waiting for this device. I suspect I will in the end get a Victron Energy based solution. STILL waiting... (12/5/2011) Will probably end up with a custom toriodal transformer. 5) Rebed all of the fittings through the deck, repair any damage caused by water intrusion into the deck or below decks (starting with aft stateroom) Aft Stateroom 5A) [100% Complete] Traveler Winches Need to make aluminum backing plates for the winches and re-install 5B) [ 0% Complete] Hinges and Latches for deck lockers - Looks like access is relatively easy from the aft stateroom. The latches appear to have lost much of their crome plating, it would be nice to find a plating shop to redo them or purchase new fittings, whichever is easier 5C) [ 0% Complete] Rebed three vent fittings - Looks like tricky access from aft stateroom but achieveable, note that vent fittings appear to have lost much of their crome plating, it would be nice to find a plating shop to redo them or purchase new fittings, whichever is easier Aft Head 5D) [ 0% Complete] Port Intermediate Running Backstay Attachment 5E) [100% Complete] Forward Port Primary Winch - Need to make new backing plate and reinstall winch. While three winches on both sides may be a bit much, the extra would be useful from time to time when furling the genoa for example with both Genoa and Staysail flying. Also setting up the running backstay from side to side when tacking can be a bit more work with only two primary winches. 5F) [100% Complete] Forward genoa winch needs new backing plate to replace original steel backing plate with aluminum. 5G) [100% Complete] Traveler winch needs new backing plate to replace original steel backing plate with aluminum 5H) [ 0% Complete] Air actuated pressure switch for port electric winch 5I) [ 10% Complete]3 cleats Dec 6, pulled all three cleats, deck is not cored under any of the three. Need to make good backing plates and decide if I should replace the cleats or send out for clear coat anodise April 2010 - Need to decide if I am going to use the new stainless cleats from Oyster which they are using on the new yachts. The bases are different and will require some paint touch up unfortunately. July 2010 - Decided to go with the new cleats from Oyster, just need to decide on the appropriate sizes. At this point I need to develop the capability to acceptabily touch up the decks from scratches and nicks anyway Selected and ordered 6 of the 8" Arch Cleats 5J) [ 0% Complete] Two shorepower plugs These are both in marginal condition (at least the internal contacts. I expect to replace both and all of the shore power plugs Thought is to have both a 110V connection (perhaps 110-50A with a 110-30A adapter) and a 208/240 connection (which could be used with 230V 50hz with a special cable). If the mastervolt auto-transformer becomes available this would result in 110V-50A making 230V-25A available on the boat, 110V-30A making 230V-15A available on the boat. 240-50A would provide 230-64A and 208-50A would give 230-42A onboard. Planning to put shore power plug on dock step. This would allow the power cord to run from the dock box to the dock step and then make the hop to the boat with a much shorter (and more important lighter) power cord. Galley 5K) [ 0% Complete] Starboard Intermediate Running Backstay Attachment 5L) [ 0% Complete] Forward Starboard Winch - Need to make new backing plate and reinstall winch. (100% Complete) 5M) [ 0% Complete] Rebed Air actuated pressure switch for starboard electric winch 5N) [ 10% Complete] 3 cleats Dec 6, 2009 pulled all three cleats, deck is not cored under any of the three, pulling forward most resulted in small scratch in the paint which will require touch up. Like the port side, need to determine if they will be replaced or sent out for clear coat. All 6 cleats are identical. Need to determine which size of stainless steel cleat that Oyster currently uses is most appropriate. Plan to order a complete set. Salon 5O) [100% Complete] Bridge Deck Instrument Cluster (100% complete unless we see water again) 5P) [ 0% Complete] Dodger tie downs [known leaks] 5Q) [ 0% Complete] Coach roof fittings 5R) [ 0% Complete] Main Salon Opening Portlights - Both of the forward opening windows need new gasket seals, used a bit of silicone to stop the leak on the port side where the cut of the gasket was open to let water in for rain A very small amount of silicone on the port opening window (only the top) has stopped the leaks, will plan to replace the gaskets in the near future but the boat is dry! Forward V-Berth 5S) [100% Complete] 5 coats of gloss varnish and two coats of rubbed effect varnish, the forward bulkhead especially had oil or something down in the grain which made getting rid of the fish eyes rather difficult. Unfortunately the work on the holding tank has caused a few minor scrapes and dings. Some touchup will be required. At worst an additional coat would be nice as the weather was not conducive to a really nice final coat in this cabin. Forward Chain Locker 5T) [ 0% Complete] Windlass - Drive train (not motor) has failed due to corrosion and needs rebuilt, may or may not be salvagable. Need to pull this and get it sent out prior to next spring. While the manual override function of the windlass works quite well I will have to address this. Then again, in southern california I mostly tie up to a mooring so as long as it works... General fasteners 5U) Toerail fasteners (120 out of 210 fasteners completed) [some evidence of leaking observed] Note that there are several (perhaps 10 or 12) of the total toerail fasteners which are self tapping and go into bulkheads or the tops of foam filled stringers. These will continue to be self tapping AND will be slotted screws rather than the phillips head bolts used for the rest of the toerail to indicate in the future that these screws do not have a backing plate behind them. These are all single screws and great care is being taken with the throughbolts on either side of these. It appears that some form of "mastic" was used to install the toerail which is still pliable, however, has a strong oder when there is stagnent water present. A small number of these bolts (1 in 4 or 5) show evidence of minor leakage as evidenced by light corrosion on the nut or tip of bolt inside the boat. A very few show minor telltail signs of a minor leakage onto the fiberglass just under the bolts. In each case the water was contained and evaporated rather than getting into wood. Most of the fasteners are tight and the nuts can be backed off without holding the bolt from above but a limited number (not always the leaking ones) spin freely requring a second person to remove the nut. In the original installation a 1" finder washer and a nut were used, after installation the nut and washer were coated with gelcoat as a "locking compound". The replacement bolts are 6mm x 35mm x ?pitch, a 1.25" diameter 1/4" hole thick fender washer, a 6mm fender washer (about 1/2" diameter), a 6mm lock washer, and a 6mm nut. The original bolts are removed (not more than 4 or 5 in a row due to the flexed toerail), a 90 degree countersink used to clean up any corrosion in the aluminum toerail, a tapered reamer is used to clean out the hole, the aluminum countersink is treated with alodine, allowed to set for 30 - 45 minutes then wiped with fresh water to remove any residual salts from the chemical prep process, gorilla tape (heavy duct tape) is placed on the backside of the hole and the hole is filled from the top with white 3M 5200. The entire treads and countersnk of the bolt are then coated with 3M 5200 and slowly pressed into the hole until it bottoms on the gorilla tape. From the inside the tape is removed and the bolt allowed to drop down, the large fender washer has one side coated with 3M 5200 and pressed against the back side of the deck lightly (it will hang in place for a couple of minutes, the uncoated 6mm fender washer and lock washer quickly follow and generally will stick to the bolt long enough to get the nut on the bolt. After the group of 4-5 bolts all have washers and nuts lightly installed I then tighten the nuts to just beyond finger tight (compress the lock washer just enough to hold the bolt in place if you try to turn the nut with your fingers without a wrench). I then set the orientation of the head of the bolt so that one line of the head is lined up with the run of the toerail (patially for asthetics and to know if I accidentally move the bolt when I perform final tensioning later. The head of the bolt is cleaned up with careful wiping on deck without the use of solvents. The nut and washers are also cleaned up sufficiently to avoid later drips. This is then allowed to partially cure for 1.5 to 5 days and then with a second person holding the head of the bolt carefully (use a good screwdriver and a wrench on it) the nut is fully tensioned. If the person on deck can call out the first indication of back tension and then the strong tension of the final torque that is helpful. This is normally about 1.5 to 3 turns of the nut if everything goes together correctly. The goal is to put the sealant under pressure and with the core still wet force sealant out into any remaining voids. Note that over the next couple of hours the sealant may ooze onto the deck or from under the washer/bolt on the inside so pay attention to avoid cured 3M 5200 on the teak interior in several places. Aft Cabin Toerail Bolts Replaced - All are complete at this point Saloon Toerail Bolts Replaced - All but the nav station bolts are complete Forward cabin Toerail Bolts Replaced - Note that three bolts just aft of the rib half way up the v-berth on the stbd side showed some moisture. Additionally there was minor moisture penetration into the top of the rib which was dryed out and several small holes left temporarily into the foam core (brown foam) of the rib to allow continued drying. Eventually I will come back and fill the void with either thickened epoxy or expanding foam depending on compatability with the existing foam. Then the self tapping screw from the deck side will be drilled out, filled with epoxy and the screw inserted with mold release to form a good seal, then back out the screw while the epoxy is green and re-install with 3M5200 to ensure a permanant seal. Recently got into the linen cabinet on the port side aft of the forward cabin. Definitely seeing about half of the bolts having some corrosion, luckily planning to replace all so I just need to get on with this. 5V) [ 0% Complete] Genoa Tracks These go from the aft head into the salon and from the galley into the salon 5W) [ 0% Complete] May have to replace all of the small hatches to avoid leaks [no leaks currently] Assuming that new lewmar ocean series hatches will fit into the same cutout new hatches are probably the right answer to avoid long term leaks It may be easier to replace the seals and the lenses. These are quite inexpensive (less than $50/hatch for both! So rather than trying to pull the small hatches I will probably continue to use the existing ones. 5X) renew all of the seals for the deck hatches (may send out all of the hatches for new lenses and seals professionally) [known leaks on most hatches] It appears that the modern Lewmar hatches have the same base pattern (not the same bolt pattern) rebuilding the existing hatches is at least 70% of the cost of new hatches Plan is to limp the current hatches along and then replace all of them as they become unserviceable. It appears that by digging out the existing silicone on the aft hatch and refilling carefully with high quality silicone I have stopped the primary leak. 6) [100% Complete] Get both heads fully functional 6A) [100% Complete] Forward head use Raritan Marine Elegance fresh water toilet, selected unit which can do fresh and salt water with dedicated salt water pump - Ordered - Received - Bolted down and fits nicely. Working on new tank. Planning to use a new semi-custom Ronco tank and two gulper waste pumps on independent pickup tubes and independent seacocks (both exist) to make sure I can always pump over the side. Note that the head will not be able to pump directly over the side but rather will be plumbed directly into the holding tank using 1" line for the 6 foot run. This will leave the direct overboard seacock available for a backup holding tank discharge pump. Made a cardboard tank to match the Ronco B279 tank 15" High, 17" Fore/aft, 22" Wide. Asked for an extra thick tank which resulted in tank walls of a bit over 3/8" thick. Picked up the tank. All of the fittings are in place. The biggest task ahead is getting good paint in the lockers. Once done I can complete the project. Went with the Whale "Gulper" holding tank pumps, two seperate pumps. The primary runs from the tank over to the starboard hanging locker and a vented loop about 3" below the toe-rail, well above waterline in all conditions, and then down to a dedicated 1.5" seacock. The pump is just aft of the holding tank, under the bunk a bit below the top of the tank. Due to positioning this will require pulling the top of the locker up inorder to do significant maintenance on the pump. Otherwise it is a nice clean run. The second pump is under the settee on the port side. This location is about half way down the tank. Since all three removal tubes are dip tubes from the top of the tank, siphoning is unlikely especially if the tanks are run till dry. I have debated having additional shutoff valves upstream of the pumps but the extra potential for plugging is not a wonderful choice. The second pump is the "backup" and as such will not have a vented loop on the output between the pump and the seacock. There is simply not a good place to put it. Thus, the dedicated seacock for this pump will always remain closed unless the pump is actively being used. The risk is failure of the diaphram of the gulper pump with the seacock open would result in a leak into the interior of the boat. The hole size is about 1/8" inch so bilge pumps could easily keep up with this in the event the seacock was left open and the diaphram failed. I will place a plackard on the seacock noting the limitations on the use of the pump as well as a dedicated power switch on the pump to prevent accidental activation against a closed seacock. [100% Complete] After much agonizing I have finally decided on a toilet which will fit cleanly in the forward head compartment. I ordered a Raritan Marine Elegance 24V head with the new seafresh option. This allows running the head off of fresh or salt water at the push of a button! It is also described as "non-boater guest friendly" due to a completely programmable electronic control system. The preferred (but not required) path is for the waste to flow down hill the entire way to the holding tank. Due to lower use from fresh water I am going to look at plumbing both heads into the main holding tank under the saloon floor. If I re-install the forward holding tank a significant portion of the lines will have raw sewage standing in them, not a desireable thing. The plan is to plumb the toilet directly to the holding tank with 1" hose to a fitting on the center top of the holding tank. If I put a loop of hose above the tank level in the raised area behind the settee in the forward cabin I can have a continuous gradual slope down to the toilet itself comming up from underneith. This should avoid any more standing water than a vented loop going straight up would have. The use of 1" hose has the potential to be more easily plugged but will be more completely flushed out with each flush using less water. I will ensure that the entire run is compatable with 1.5" hose and the fittings on the top of the tank can accomodate the larger line if I find it necessary. So far, the Marine Elegance toilet has been running flawlessly! I did in fact use the 1" hose. The vigor with which the toilet moves water into the holding tank is amazing. I can hear the vented loop open up at the end of each flush cycle after the waste has gone by. This looks to be a very nice system. 6B) [100% Complete] Either connect forward head to main holding tank or install replacement forward holding tank under v-berth with associated plumbing - Determined to use two holding tanks as was done previously 6C) [100% Complete] Install Groco Model K toilet in master head [100% Complete] Install Head [ 20% Complete] Replace waste hose [100% Complete] Replace exhaust vented loop [ 0% Complete] Plumb head intake to fresh water [either seperate small tank, connect to sink drain, dedicated device for this purpose exists, may go that way.] Currently planning on a custom plastic tank from Ronco which will allow adding the holding tank chemicals to the fresh intake water which can be filled with a valve. 7) [ 50% Complete] Get both showers fully functional 7A) [100% Complete] Forward shower should easily use Whale Gulper based automatic sump, the priority being having the forward head to be extremely user friendly even if it requires some additional cleaning. The Whale Graywater IC pump with two ports fits perfectly. The shower drain is in fact 1" just like the 2 port manifold, the sink drain uses 3/4" line. The pump is sufficiently powerful that even with the sink completely full of water and pull the stopper there is only a hint of water showing up in the shower sump. With the sink full and pull the stopper while the shower is running everything continues to work correctly and does not overfill. Overall this has been an exceptional piece of hardware which is very easy to use. 7B) [ 0% Complete] Aft head may not have sufficient drop to allow use of a sump, may have to use a Whale Gulper directly like LB^2 perhaps add a system to automatically come on when the shower is running I would love to use the new Whale IC series shower pumps if they get released in time! These pumps have dedicated "gullies" which trigger the pump and do not require the use of a drain sump! Unfortunately when I tried to rework the aft shower the piece of hose connecting to the shower stall drain came off. This is a blind connection which I cannot get to which will require either removing the shower stall base or finding a way to remove the shower drain and replace it with the Gully IC version of the Whale Gulper. This does explaine where the water I have been finding below the floor in the aft shower has been coming from. The water has been cleaned up and the shower won't be used until the repairs are complete. 8) [100% Complete] Install new propane system 8A) [100% Complete] Weld part back on stove 9) Sink drains in heads and galley 9A) [100% Complete] Galley sink sump or two independent gulpers with some form of automatic or adjustable speed control - a single gulper worked very nicely. 9B) [100% Complete] Forward head sink could drain into same sump as forward shower perhaps - a single gulper worked very well. 9C) [ 0% Complete] Aft head sink may need independent sump system or an automatic control for a Whale Gulper Currently replaced aft pump with identical pump, found that the hose was cracked and had been "repaired" using electrical tape and a hose clamp! This explains the water from time to time under the floor in the aft head. Now that it is consistently dry I have placed a chemical based dehumidifier under the floor to be sure that it gets completely dry. This seems to have been the source of the majority of the moisture under the floor in the aft head! Projects which are currently on the back burner... AC system upgrades Debug existing Trace 1500DR inverter for the 110V system. - Removed, it was dangerous Install Dedicated Inverter in Nav Station to support Computer Based Electronics Package [100% Complete on Current Upgrades] Electronics upgrades (Nav station flat panels, computers, NMEA 2000 instruments, etc) 19" Flat Panel 22" Flat Panel Dedicated NAV Computer Davit Support Structure - Rust and pulled away fiberglass makes these rather suspect. Fortunatly the davits will not fit in the slip so currently removed which removes tempation to use them. New Autopilot Tiller Arm - Hopefully two of these one for each autopilot Rebuild Rudder Stops 2nd Autopilot installation - Mechanical or Hydraulic? Insulated backstay antenna installation - Delay until needed Name on back of boat!!! [100% Complete] Clean Lazarette Install deck shower (w/warm water) Grease steering system [ 50% Complete] Replace washer/dryer with 60cycle version which is not rusted Removed old unit Upgrade fixtures in heads/galley - I am definitely interested in the "touch on/touch off" system available from ???? in the home water faucets. Especially for the galley this looks like a great idea! Replace lenses in deck hatches - Just replace the hatches! Curtian systems in both heads Headliner upgrade throughout boat - Deinitely want to use "Harpoon" which was a great material on LB^2 Replace all lighting fixtures with LED fixtures Upgrade countertops in galley & Heads (Granet? Corian? Avocite?) Digital controls for fridge and freezer (computer monitorable and preferably controllable) Aft stateroom TV/Computer screen - Eventually most likely a OLED screen only because there are no high quality 26 - 30" displays available, 32" Samsung led backlight display (6500 series) will just fit! Cost is about $1100 Main cabin TV - Currently Samsung 40" LED backlite 7000 series ~$1600, new series 40 inch display has thinner besel and should be released in May 2010, expect price to be about $2000, it exists, it is 3D! And fits very nicely. I just have to get up the nerve to drill 4 holes which are 8mm in diameter in the forward saloon bulkhead! They are on about 16 inch square pattern and should end up under any other art which would be on the bulkhead. If I were building the boat from scratch I would make a lift for the TV from behind the settee and have some very thin metal art on the bulkhead. moveable foot switch to make furling the mainsail easier - makes a one person operation with friction pin friction pin for outhaul line when furling - makes a one person operation with foot switch 10) Spring Haul out, Being that she was last hauled May of 2009 I will assume the need to haul again in the spring of 2011 to go through all of the Blake seacocks and re-grease them. At this point the following items need to be completed 10A) Dripless Packing for propeller shaft - Definitely put this one on the next haul out, need 1.5 inch shaft and 2.5 inch stern tube. Cutless bearing is not in stern tube so no need for the water injection, the current system is truely irritating! Should go ahead and order, this is a 1.5 inch shaft and 2.5 inch stern tube system. (need to absolutely determine if this is Imperial or Metric for the shaft. Time to get the calipers out and check carefully. 10B) New studs for zinc anode - Definitely need to complete this on the next haul out. 10C) Seacock Maintenance Dissassemble each seacock, inspect bores, use thickened epoxy (JB weld?) if necessary to fill in corrosion and then rebed Grease all of the seacocks using "Lanocote" which has worked quite well for the last 2 years, seacocks are a bit stiff to move but have not leaked at all once snugged up. 10D) Wax hull from toerail to waterline 10E) If can match color close enough do some gel-coat repair if not live with it 10F) Re-Do Cove Stripe 10G) Re-Do Boot Stripe 10H) Tear down Max Prop and rebuild 10I) May need new cutless bearing? 11) More Varnish 11A) [100% Complete] Varnish Saloon Sole 11B) [100% Complete] Companionway Stairs Varnishing New Treadmaster SP 12) [ 50% Complete] Replace deck level navigation lights with 34 series AquaSignal LED running lights. 13) [100% Complete] Rebuild Propane System 14) [100% Complete] To solve the problem of the galley sink potentially overflowing I will use one of the Whale Gulper IC pump kits ( WM8484 ) which has two ports to pump the sink drains over the side. This pump will go from the drains of the sink to the gulper two port manifold, then two the gulper pump, up through a 3/4" vented loop on the inboard side of the galley and then over the side through one of the two 3/4" seacocks under the galley sink (the other will most likely be the intake for the watermaker so the drain outlet should be higher up on the hull to avoid oil getting in. |
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