Winter Projects 2012

Winter Projects 2012
With the completion of the 2012 Commodore's Cruise with the Corsair Yacht Club it is time to get on with the larger winter projects. This summer has been the warmest in many years and the boat got an amazing amount of use. The last big trip for the year is Thanksgiving over at Isthmus and then it is time to get down to maintenance. First on the list is getting the boat hauled, new bottom paint and some nagging issues worked through. 1) Varnish, more varnish, and yet more varnish 1A) [ 95% Complete] Cabin Soles. The selected varnish build up for the sole is three coats of gloss varnish (the first coat thinned heavily), the second coat moderately thinned, and then one or more coats until a clean free sanding coat is achieved. The key being a smooth surface without fish eyes or other holidays. These coats provide a flexible base which fills well. Then a minimum of 5 coats of rubbed effect varnish are applied for durability. The durability of this varnish build up has been very good and getting the remainder of the sole completed for protection will be a focus for this winter. [100% Complete] Forward Head - Board is in very good shape Complete (1 Board) [100% Complete] Forward Cabin - Boards are in good shape, varnish should go quickly (3 Boards) [100% Complete] Forward Bunk Cabin - Board is in very good shape but difficult to get up (1 Board) [100% Complete] Forward Hall - Boards are in good shape but will require some work due to bare spots (3 Boards) [100% Complete] Saloon Sole - The floorboards are rather snug and so it is vitally important to trim the edges carefully (11 Boards) The boards in front of the engine and engine cover required significant work to deal with fish eyes [100% Complete] Galley - These are probably in the worst shape on the vessel. There are several deep dings which were sealed up quickly as they are not discolored but will require filling with a clear epoxy to get smooth (4 Boards) [100% Complete] Aft Cabin - These are in good shape but need attention very soon, there are a significant number of minor dings which will cover completely and be invisible (5 Boards) [100% Complete] Aft Head - These are in reasonably good shape, there has been some moisture under these boards and so careful drying and sealing will be needed to ensure the new varnish stays good. There is not any significant permanant damage to date. (1/30/2012 - Currently two coats of gloss varnish applied with one to two more coats to get a clean sanding surface prior to moving on to rubbed effect varnish these two panels were pulled down almost exclusively using single edged razor blades being pulled across the surface. The ability to remove old varnish in a very controlled was is very good we will see how these look when finished) Will apply a minimum of 5 coats of rubbed effect varnish 1B) [ 0% Complete] Trim around Cabin Sole - These are solid teak and can be recovered without damage so not as high a priority at the moment. 1C) [ 75% Complete] Interior bulkheads and cabinetry [ 95% Complete] Forward cabin - Some touch up required for faint scratches from the holding tank installation. - The weather was not ideal when the final coat went on, it would be nice to apply one more coat to the cabin \eventually [ 0% Complete] Forward Head - Some minor delamination of the teak venear which can be reglued without too much difficulty [ 0% Complete] Forward Bunk Cabin - Some bare wood under hatch will require care otherwise will not be difficult [ 0% Complete] Forward Hall - Existing varnish is in good shape but will soon need attention [ 90% Complete] Saloon - Table, cabinetry under table, and floorboard under table are yet to be completed [100% Complete] Galley - [ 0% Complete] Aft Cabin - Varnish is in relatively good shape, there is some moisture discoloration very low in the port and starboard sides which will require some attention. Otherwise the existing varnish is in pretty good shape [ 0% Complete] Aft Head - In general the teak is in pretty good shape and will not require alot of work 2) AC Power System Rebuild 2A) [ 0% Complete] Convert to single phase power from shore power or convert to 240 split phase, currently running 208 Currently re-evaluating options, the Multitap switch mode isolation transformer is overdue by 4 years and I need to move on soon. Various options are possible but all require manual setting of switches, taps, etc and it is likely that at some point someone will make a serious mistake and damage the electrical system. Probably going to drop back to using a pair of 100A 24V chargers (nominal 28V @100A) to convert any voltage from 90V to 265V and any frequency (45hz to 65hz) into DC power. Then use inverters to make the desired power. Each battery charger can consume 3375 watts and produce 2850 watts of DC power or about 85% efficiency. at 230V this would consume 30A, at 208V 32A, at 120V 56A. Three of the chargers would consume 45A at 230V, 48A at 208V, and 84A at 120V. Thus, if I leave room for 3 chargers I can determine how many are really required to keep up. Either 2850, 5700, 8550 watts of available power. My highest power bill in the last 12 months was $45 which at $0.10/kwh means that I used 450kwh in a month or 1.5Kwh/day or 0.125Kw each hour on average or if running on 28V that would be 0.5A/hour which seems very low to me. If I assume that the fridge runs 10% of the time at 800 watts that would be 80 watts or 0.08kw average. The hot water heater is probably in the same category. So those two together are probably similar to my assumed average run rate. Due to the AC being low on refrigerant I don't run it significantly but if the air conditioners were running 20% of the time they would consume 4000 watts/hour in heat. If assume 50% duty over 40% of the day (9.6 hours) with a cycle time of 30 min on/30 min off. Peak draw is 166A, average loaded is 83A, Daily average is 33A. If assume a single 100A charger, losing 66A for 30min then charging at 100A for 15min, 0 load for 15 min. With two 100A chargers the batteries only see intermittent load. Max draw on battery bank with single charger is 66A which is well under 25% of bank capacity (440/4=110A) If assume fridge, AC as above, and hot water heater as above then peak is 4000+800+1000=5800 watts = 241A, if single 100A charger battery sees 141A discharge peaks. If assume 50% duty on all equipment that would mean 120A average load at 24V or 102A at 28V so one charger could just keep up The expected power bill would be $7/month Hopefully Mastervolt will release their "Multitap" version of their 7KW switch mode isolation transformer so I can get the electrical system upgrade underway. After two years Mastervolt says the device is not yet out of engineering... This is unfortunate as I have been waiting for this device. I suspect I will in the end get a Victron Energy based solution and a custom transformer from "...", most likely able to consume 50A at 240V, 50A at 230V, 50A at 208V, 100A at 120V, and 100A at 104V. The output of the transformer would either be single phase 230 / 240V or split phase 240 depending on how it is wired. For the time being I will plan to wire it as single phase 230/240V, however, if I decide to convert to split phase 240 (which would require a new breaker panel) both the transformer and the Victron inverters would work fine in either mode. For the 240V split phase an additional "AutoTransformer" is required to balance the phases. Talked to Mastervolt at the Annapolis Boat Show in Fall 2012, while the concept is still on the books it has not surfaced from Engineering. Being that I have been waiting for this device for almost 4 years it is probably time to give up on the concept as Mastervolt does not seem to be focused on this product at the moment. Need to go with either a custom made multitap toroidal transformer (like the one from XXX Magnetics) or just convert everything into DC and then use inverters to make the proper power forms. Thought is to have both a 110V connection (perhaps 110-50A with a 110-30A adapter) and a 208/240 connection (which could be used with 230V 50hz with a special cable). If the mastervolt auto-transformer becomes available this would result in 110V-50A making 230V-25A available on the boat, 110V-30A making 230V-15A available on the boat. 240-50A would provide 230-64A and 208-50A would give 230-42A onboard. The hop to the boat with a much shorter (and more important lighter) power cord. If use toroidal Isolation Transformer probably a 50A @240, 50A @230, 50A @ 208, 100A @ 120V input taps, with output taps for 230/240 single phase AND split phase. The transformer would weigh about 160lbs. 2B) [ 0% Complete] Two shorepower plugs These are both in marginal condition (at least the internal contacts. I expect to replace both and all of the shore power plugs). Ideally the new "smart" power connector will be available for 50A 240 volt shortly. These have thermal sensors which disconnect the power in the event of an overtemperature conditino on the plug avoiding burned connectors. Planning to put shore power plug on dock step. This would allow the power cord to run from the dock box to the dock step and then make a short cable to connect. Alternatively run the shore power cord into the dock box and then back out without having to make a connection inside of the box. 2C) [ 0% Complete] Inverter / Charger upgrade. Current plan is to use a single Victron Quatro 8KVA unit. I had thought about two 5KVA units for redundancy but it turns out that an 8KVA Victron unit will fit in exactly the same position as the existing McClarron 30A @ 24V charger. The DC power runs are very easy and the locker is already vented cleanly to get heat out of the locker. The position will require running high amperage AC lines from the isolation transformer (under the stbd settee) to the inverter and then back to the AC panel, the power from the generator will have to be re-routed but otherwise the huge DC runs will be relatively short and provide an ideal location for fuses so it is probably a good compromise. This unit will provide 200A @ 24V for charging. For the current 440AH bank at 24V this would be a bit fast for charging (i.e. about C/2) and golf cart batteries prefer to be charged no faster than C/4, however, AGM batteries can easily handle C/2. I will either be converting to AGM or Lithium batteries depending on the stability of the Lithium technology and the cost. If Lithium the bank can be expanded by a factor of two and be charged at higher rates so the larger charger will be welcome. Also, the 8KVA generator should be able to drive the charger to full capacity with a load of about 28V * 200A / 0.8 efficiency = 7KVA = 87% of maximum load. 3) [ 50% Complete] Rebed all of the fittings through the deck, repair any damage caused by water intrusion into the deck or below decks (starting with aft stateroom) Aft Stateroom 3A) Hinges and Latches for deck lockers - Looks like access is relatively easy from the aft stateroom. The latches appear to have lost much of their crome plating, it would be nice to find a plating shop to redo them or purchase new fittings, whichever is easier 3B) Rebed three vent fittings - Looks like tricky access from aft stateroom but achieveable, note that vent fittings appear to have lost much of their crome plating, it would be nice to find a plating shop to redo them or purchase new fittings, whichever is easier Aft Head 3C) [ 25% Complete] Port Intermediate Running Backstay Attachment - By removing the washer / dryer I now have access to this one 3D) Air actuated pressure switch for port electric winch 3E) [ 25% Complete] 3 cleats Dec 6, pulled all three cleats, deck is not cored under any of the three. Need to make good backing plates and decide if I should replace the cleats or send out for clear coat anodise pulling forward most resulted in small scratch in the paint which will require touch up. Like the port side, need to determine if they will be replaced or sent out for clear coat. All 6 cleats are identical. Need to determine which size of stainless steel cleat that Oyster currently uses is most appropriate. Plan to order a complete set. April 2010 - Need to decide if I am going to use the new stainless cleats from Oyster which they are using on the new yachts. The bases are different and will require some paint touch up unfortunately. July 2010 - Decided to go with the new cleats from Oyster, just need to decide on the appropriate sizes. At this point I need to develop the capability to acceptabily touch up the decks from scratches and nicks anyway Selected and ordered 6 of the 8" Arch Cleats Galley 3F) Starboard Intermediate Running Backstay Attachment 3G) Rebed Air actuated pressure switch for starboard electric winch Salon 3H) Dodger tie downs [known leaks] 3I) Coach roof fittings 3J) Main Salon Opening Portlights - Both of the forward opening windows need new gasket seals, used a bit of silicone to stop the leak on the port side where the cut of the gasket was open to let water in for rain A very small amount of silicone on the port opening window (only the top) has stopped the leaks, will plan to replace the gaskets in the near future but the boat is dry! General fasteners 3K) [ 50% Complete] Toerail fasteners (120 out of 210 fasteners completed) [some evidence of leaking observed] Note that there are several (perhaps 10 or 12) of the total toerail fasteners which are self tapping and go into bulkheads or the tops of foam filled stringers. These will continue to be self tapping AND will be slotted screws rather than the phillips head bolts used for the rest of the toerail to indicate in the future that these screws do not have a backing plate behind them. These are all single screws and great care is being taken with the throughbolts on either side of these. It appears that some form of "mastic" was used to install the toerail which is still pliable, however, has a strong oder when there is stagnent water present. A small number of these bolts (1 in 4 or 5) show evidence of minor leakage as evidenced by light corrosion on the nut or tip of bolt inside the boat. A very few show minor telltail signs of a minor leakage onto the fiberglass just under the bolts. In each case the water was contained and evaporated rather than getting into wood. Most of the fasteners are tight and the nuts can be backed off without holding the bolt from above but a limited number (not always the leaking ones) spin freely requring a second person to remove the nut. In the original installation a 1" finder washer and a nut were used, after installation the nut and washer were coated with gelcoat as a "locking compound". The replacement bolts are 6mm x 35mm x ?pitch, a 1.25" diameter 1/4" hole thick fender washer, a 6mm fender washer (about 1/2" diameter), a 6mm lock washer, and a 6mm nut. The original bolts are removed (not more than 4 or 5 in a row due to the flexed toerail), a 90 degree countersink used to clean up any corrosion in the aluminum toerail, a tapered reamer is used to clean out the hole, the aluminum countersink is treated with alodine, allowed to set for 30 - 45 minutes then wiped with fresh water to remove any residual salts from the chemical prep process, gorilla tape (heavy duct tape) is placed on the backside of the hole and the hole is filled from the top with white 3M 5200. The entire treads and countersnk of the bolt are then coated with 3M 5200 and slowly pressed into the hole until it bottoms on the gorilla tape. From the inside the tape is removed and the bolt allowed to drop down, the large fender washer has one side coated with 3M 5200 and pressed against the back side of the deck lightly (it will hang in place for a couple of minutes, the uncoated 6mm fender washer and lock washer quickly follow and generally will stick to the bolt long enough to get the nut on the bolt. After the group of 4-5 bolts all have washers and nuts lightly installed I then tighten the nuts to just beyond finger tight (compress the lock washer just enough to hold the bolt in place if you try to turn the nut with your fingers without a wrench). I then set the orientation of the head of the bolt so that one line of the head is lined up with the run of the toerail (patially for asthetics and to know if I accidentally move the bolt when I perform final tensioning later. The head of the bolt is cleaned up with careful wiping on deck without the use of solvents. The nut and washers are also cleaned up sufficiently to avoid later drips. This is then allowed to partially cure for 1.5 to 5 days and then with a second person holding the head of the bolt carefully (use a good screwdriver and a wrench on it) the nut is fully tensioned. If the person on deck can call out the first indication of back tension and then the strong tension of the final torque that is helpful. This is normally about 1.5 to 3 turns of the nut if everything goes together correctly. The goal is to put the sealant under pressure and with the core still wet force sealant out into any remaining voids. Note that over the next couple of hours the sealant may ooze onto the deck or from under the washer/bolt on the inside so pay attention to avoid cured 3M 5200 on the teak interior in several places. Aft Cabin Toerail Bolts Replaced - All are complete at this point Saloon Toerail Bolts Replaced - All but the nav station bolts are complete Forward cabin Toerail Bolts Replaced - Note that three bolts just aft of the rib half way up the v-berth on the stbd side showed some moisture. Additionally there was minor moisture penetration into the top of the rib which was dryed out and several small holes left temporarily into the foam core (brown foam) of the rib to allow continued drying. Eventually I will come back and fill the void with either thickened epoxy or expanding foam depending on compatability with the existing foam. Then the self tapping screw from the deck side will be drilled out, filled with epoxy and the screw inserted with mold release to form a good seal, then back out the screw while the epoxy is green and re-install with 3M5200 to ensure a permanant seal. Recently got into the linen cabinet on the port side aft of the forward cabin. Definitely seeing about half of the bolts having some corrosion, luckily planning to replace all so I just need to get on with this. 3L) Genoa Tracks These go from the aft head into the salon and from the galley into the salon It looks like the wrong bolts were used at the last re-installation or that they were installed incorrectly as many are cocked up May decide to replace with a Harken ball bearing system to avoid tearing up headsails due to flutter. Need to look carefully for moisture intrusion under the tracks. The area appeared to confuse the moisture meter, could just be the materials used but need to be sure we don't have a moisture problem. 3M) May have to replace all of the small hatches to avoid leaks [no leaks currently] Assuming that new lewmar ocean series hatches will fit into the same cutout new hatches are probably the right answer to avoid long term leaks. It may be easier to replace the seals and the lenses. These are quite inexpensive (less than $50/hatch for both! So rather than trying to pull the small hatches I will probably continue to use the existing ones. 3N) renew all of the seals for the deck hatches (may send out all of the hatches for new lenses and seals professionally) [known leaks on most hatches] It appears that the modern Lewmar hatches have the same base pattern (not the same bolt pattern) rebuilding the existing hatches is at least 70% of the cost of new hatches. Plan is to limp the current hatches along and then replace all of them as they become unserviceable. It appears that by digging out the existing silicone on the aft hatch and refilling carefully with high quality silicone I have stopped the primary leak. Fall 2011 Update - Aft hatch over the aft bunk is leaking again. This time applied 3M4000 UV (white) to the top of the hatch covering the edge of the metal frame and the edge of the acrylic. This appears to have stopped the leak again. 3O) Rudder Post Emergency Tiller Access. Reglued the thin plastic cover to the deck. It appears that when the teak decks were removed the original cover for the rudder post and did not seal the edge of the balsa core. Due to the cover leaking there has been some moisture here and thus the balsa core is damp. I will need to find a new deck plate and then modify everything to fit nicely. While at it I should setup the emergency tiller completely including the block and tackles take pictures and verify how I would setup the emergency tiller in an emergency. 4) Head updates 4A) [ 10% Complete] Install salt water option on half head and final touch of of cabinetry [ 10% Complete] Install salt water option for aft head - Pump, Strainer, Throughhull, Intake Y valve, Pickle Container, Vented Loop [ 0% Complete] Varnish teak backstop for toilet [ 0% Complete] Seal cabinetry around toilet for good cleaning 4B) [ 10% Complete] Update aft shower [ 0% Complete] Install new shower head, perhaps a large style raindrop shower from the ceiling, this would be truely decadent but use quite a bit of water, would need alternative hand wand [ 0% Complete] Install temperature controlled water controls 4C) [ 0% Complete] Final sealing of pump support below floorboards in aft head. System is working well, final cleanup of installation will take an afternoon. 4D) [ 0% Complete] Remodel Forward Head [ 0% Complete] New shower head with positive temperature control [ 0% Complete] New Shower Curtian [ 0% Complete] Seal seams [ 0% Complete] Headliner Velcro [ 0% Complete] Complete installation of toilet platform (forward part needs screwed together) [ 0% Complete] Complete floor installation [ 0% Complete] Remove, polish, and reinstall rub strakes 5) [ 75% Complete] Replace all lighting fixtures with LED fixtures 5A) [100% Complete] Replace all Festoon bulbs with LED from Imtra using Warm White 5B) [ 0% Complete] Replace all 9 reading lamps with Imtra reading lights Forward Cabin - Two Traditional Brass Reading Lamps (Large) Bunk Cabin - Two Traditional Brass Reading Lamps (Large) Main Cabin - Three Traditional Brass Reading Lamps (Large) Master Stateroom - Two Traditional Brass Reading Lamps (Large) 5C) [ 0% Complete] Install new overhead light (was red light) in nav station - Perhaps Oyster has one they have removed? 5D) [ 0% Complete] Find replacement switch for the forward cabin switch which had been replaced with something which did not have the same form factor. Hopefully Oyster can get one of these for me. 5E) [ 0% Complete] There are 10 of the 9" long flourescent fixtures. MarineBeam.com has a drop in replacement (which does require minor wiring changes to bypass the ballast. These are $32 each. Make sure they are the right ones and get them ordered. 6) [ 50% Complete] Replace navigation lights with 34 series AquaSignal LED running lights. [100% Complete] Masthead Tri-Color [100% Complete] Port deck light [100% Complete] Stbd deck light [ 25% Complete] Stern Light (purchased, not installed) [ 25% Complete] Steaming Light (Purchased, not installed) 7) [ 10% Complete] Repair / Replace Windlass Tom just installed a 1500 series windlass from Lofrans which looks to be a much more refined piece of gear compared to the Lewmar which he had. This brings the choice to an easy replacement as a Lofrans vertical or use a Lighthouse horizontal. The 24V version of the Lofrans should be sufficiently strong. Troy recommends using stainless chain if having a problem with chain pile rather than the lofrans device to help lay the chain out in the locker. Stainless chain is smoother and thus does not tend to have problems piling or binding up. By the time you re-galvanize steel chain a couple of times you could have had stainless for the whole time and no rust. Plan on 300 foot of chain and 400 - 500 foot of line behind it spliced together. Tom promised to provide some feedback about how well the manual override on the Lofrans works which will be the deciding factor if I use the same winch - Appears that a winch handle into the top of the drum will pull in chain with a fine ratchet like the Lighthouse windlass I had on LBB - Will get the template for the windlass and if it will cover the hole I will probably just get one. Wiring costs will not be insignificant. Current work to date has been to get the existing windlass to work in manual override acceptably. Interesting that Lofrans will not sell the stainless version in the states 8) [100% Complete] Spring Haul out, Being that she was last hauled May of 2009 I will assume the need to haul again in the spring of 2013 to go through all of the Blake seacocks and re-grease them. Haul is set for Thursday Nov 29th, 2012. Two coats of bottom paint, three at the waterline and leading edges. Pulling at Windward in Marina Del Rey. Also having a survey completed for insurance and re-finance. At this point the following items need to be completed: 8A) [100% Complete] Dripless Packing for propeller shaft Installed unit is 1.5 inch shaft and 2.5 inch stern tube. Water vented but not plumbed into the raw water for the engine to avoid issues with no vented loop between the engine and the water seal. PYI recommends just venting unless the vessel is capable of over 12 knts while motoring. I have run the 3/8" vent tube up to the underside of the cockpit sole which is very high above waterline. Initial "burping" if the seal found no air in the system as the vent cleared the tube completely. Still good practice to check. Looks was tight but workable, I had to sand down the bilge right under the bellows area to avoid hull friction with the bellows against the hull. It is close but there is clearance after a bit of cleaning and sanding. I then painted that portion of the bilge with Interlux Bilgecoat. The color is about right with 2 parts grey and 1 part white. The installation is tight. With the bellows compressed 1" there is 0.675" of clearance between the stainless steel rotor and the aft portion of the Aquadrive system. I also installed the shaft clamp from PYI to be sure that the shaft cannot come out of the back of the boat. Stern tube was mostly full of old smelly grease from the greased packing system originally installed. The windward crew worked with me to clean up the stern tube while the cutless bearing was out of the tube. Everything is nice and clean. Adjusted the bellows pressure after about 10 hours of operation, added about 0.25" to the 1" of minimum compression required. 8B) [100% Complete] New studs for zinc anode Windward Yachtcenter had bronze bolts, nuts, and parts to make an improved mount for the large plate zinc. The bolts are 3/8" diameter and the preferred "Diver's Dream" plate zinc has a 3/8" slot. The 1/2" slot zinc will work but not nearly as well. Removal of the old studs was difficult. Both studs were staineless steel and had a small square plate welded to the stud on the outside of the hull. The nuts were frozen on the inside and eventually had to be wrenched off. Both were leaking slightly, no moisture on the inside of the hull but corrosion was showing. New studs have hard plastic spacers inside and outside the hull. All installed with fast cure 3M 5200. The inside plastic mounts required some sanding to get a good fit to the hull. An additional fiberglass batten was run between the two studs and secured to ensure that the bolts will not turn due to an overanxious diver applying too much torque when putting a new zinc on. 8C) [100% Complete] Seacock Maintenance Disassembled each seacock, inspected bores it appears that the use of "Lanocoat" has avoided additional corrosion so no need to use thickened epoxy or JB weld to fill in corrosion Greased all of the seacocks using "Lanocote" which worked quite well for the last 3.5 years. I had forgotten how nicely each seacock moved with fresh Lanocoat. I will have to get in the habit of re-greasing the seacocks in the water before they get this stiff. All seacocks could still move but were quite stiff. After the rebuild they are able to be moved with a couple of fingers! 8D) [100% Complete] Wax hull from toerail to waterline $800 labor, $100 for 3M materials 8H) [100% Complete] Tear down Max Prop and rebuild Purchased rebuild kit from PYI and was able to rebuild prop nicely. Without grease there is a slightly snug point in the rotation but with grease installed and the prop blades installed it is not significant. Note that the prop is about the same diameter as the 22" x 18" pitch two bladed prop which came with the boat as a spare. So this is a 3 bladed prop of approximately 22" diameter. The pitch was 16 degrees of pitch (position "C" under the cone and position "K" for the hub rotation) Surveyor noted that the hub did not feel right on the shaft Discussed with PYI and there should be no motion of the furthest forward part of the hub assembly relative to the shaft. It turned out that the prop was loose on the shaft and that the key was what was preventing motion of the prop on the shaft. Unfortunately the key had become worn and was not especially tight so there was several degrees of rotation of the hub relative to the shaft. Shaft and hub were sent to Wilmington Propeller where the shaft was found to be bent and the taper was humped which explains the hub being loose on the shaft. Reinstall the max prop which involved cutting off excess threads and re-pinning the nut on the shaft. 8I) [100% Complete] Replace both cutless bearings are 2" OD and 1.5" ID $60 each Note that the bearing in the stern tube was very badly worn suggesting that the shaft may be bent, the inside of the bearing bore was completely smooth. Windward Yacht Center's crew removed both bearings and installed the new ones without issue. Both had to be cut with a saw and a small portion removed to get them out cleanly. Cutless bearing is 2" outside diameter, 1.5" shaft diameter, 6" length in both the stainless steel strut and the fiberglass stern tube 8J) [ 95% Complete]Knotmeter Transducer Replacement CS4500 - P17 from airmar looks like it might fit into the existing throughhull!!! Verified that the blanking plug does in fact match a standard P17 housing. The CS4500 will work just fine, however, Airmar is currently out of stock but will be available soon. Will purchase soon after new year. Could wait for the NMEA 2000 version however that would force an upgrade of instruments on the boat as they are old enough to not be able to be put into repeater mode CS4500 - P17 installed and working beautifully. The valve in the tube got pushed out with the transducer, will have to work on that at a later time but otherwise the speed is very accurate. Remaining work is to fix the valve issue so that I can take the transducer out without a large amount of water coming in, it worked correctly the first time but then came apart. 8K) [100% Complete] Sent shaft out for check of straightness along with hub of MaxProp to deal with "humped" taper. Wilmington Propeller was able to straighten out the shaft (it was out by xxx) and fix the taper (which moved the position of the prop by perhaps 1/16th of an inch forward. Install shaft back into thrust bearing assembly through dripless stuffing box The yard cut three threads off the end of the shaft as too many were extending into the MaxProp hub. There is still sufficient threads for the spare two bladed propeller but not for a second nut. Yard recommends using 3M 5200 on threads if installing the spare prop in the water or if hauled, drill and pin the nut. The spare prop does fit the new shaft taper correctly. Need to find some spare key material to make up a spare key for the spare propeller. 8L) [100% Complete] Replace depth sounder transducer. Current transducer is intermittent, it is an Airmar P19 sensor which is a 350 watt single frequency (200khz) sensor The local west marine had an Airmar P319 sensor which fit in the same hull cutout. This is a 600 watt dueal frequency (200khz & 50khz) sensor. Discussions with Airmar noted that the performance will be as good or better than the original P19 sensor. The only downside is that the P319 is not available as a tilted sensor to make up for hull angle. Luckly in my case the tilt is less than 5 degrees (about 4 degrees actually) and so the flat sensor would be the one I would use anyway. This will allow using some of the advanced depth sensors / fish finders if desired. The sensor is somewhat more expensive ($100 vs $60) but will work just fine. 8M) [100% Complete] Bottom Painting Two coats of Trinadad Red, hard bottom paint on the bottom. An extra coat on the waterline and leading edges applied by windward. Prior paint was Bluewater SLC 67 (hard paint) with the "BioBoost" additive (Red). This paint has worked very nicely but is not available in California anymore. Paint under that appears to be a hard paint which Knight and Carver inspected, found to be mostly tight and verfied compatibility with a hard paint. Some minor problems with the new paint lifting but those areas were re-sanded and new paint applied. 8N) [100% Complete] Rebuild "Stripper" line cutters Unit is an AM10 for a 1.5" shaft. Note that both the AM10 and the AM15 will fit on the 1.5" shaft and the AM15 is the more common but for whatever reason this vessel has the AM10. It may be that the required shaft space for the AM10 is 10mm less than the AM15 and the fit is a bit tight. However, with the right rebuild kit the system looks to be fully functional again and is fully installed. 8O) [100% Complete] New Zincs New "Diver's Dream" plate with 3/8" slots installed on the hull New 1.5" egg zinc installed on shaft New 83mm hub MaxProp zinc installed on the aft end of the propeller. 8P) [100% Complete] Inspect rudder bearings and found to be tight 8Q) [100% Complete] Splash boat and carefully inspect all of the possible sources of leaks before leaving Windward Yacht Center 9) Canvas Work 9A) Winter enclosure for cockpit 9B) Covers for furling gear 9C) Covers for hatches 10) [ 5% Complete] Electronics Upgrades for 2013 10A) [ 0% Complete] Additional Electronics upgrades AIS Transmitter, Probably the COMNAV Class A unit 10B) [ 10% Complete] Install cell phone booster to masthead antenna 10C) [ 0% Complete] Complete coupling of FM radio to TV antenna 10D) [ 0% Complete] Find better location for file server, perhaps behind the drawers in the nav station on a shelf? 11) HVAC 11A) Charge air conditioners with Refrigerant. Definitely running slightly low which is causing the icing up of the evaporators. 11B) Gulper discharge pumps for water run off rather than draining into bilge 11C) Clean up compressor assemblies 11D) Add 24V air booster / blower to both circuits to provide airflow with the air conditioners off 12) New water pressure pump, prefer variable speed high flow unit. 13) [100% Complete] Install PUR40E watermaker under galley sink, this watermaker came from LBB and is a 12V unit. The cost of a large enough 24VDC -> 12VDC converter is much less than a new drive motor. If I pick the right unit it can be identical to the unit I would use for the SSB radio and provide for a spare. The watermaker is working well and producing 95% of the rate of water it ever did. this is pretty good on a 12 year old membrane which has not been touched for 8 years! I made up two pieces of 2" PVC pipe with one end threaded so that I can store the extra membranes and change out the biocide when I do the same for the installed membrane. 14) New fuel filter assemblies for the generator and main engine. Existing Raycor 500 series units have some internal corrosion. Like to upgrade to 900 or 1000 series if they will fit. Even better would be one of the two filters and valves if I could make that fit to allow running while cleaning the filter. I don't think there is room but I could provide a crossover switch so the main engine can run on the generator filter which would provide the same basic functionality. The reason for the attention is that this vessel only has one large fuel tank rather than two separated tanks so a fouled tank is of particular concern. 15) Install flowscan system for main engine. 16) Galley stove swing stop 17) [ 30% Complete] Open and clean fuel / water tanks completely This will probably involve cutting the existing sticky o-rings and replacing to keep from over-torquing the polycarbonate access covers. Need to determine if Oyster has replacements if I break one. Tom and I were able to open all of the access hatches for the STBD water tanks. I will be spending some significant time in the spring cleaning this tank within an inch of it's life! There are some small black spots inside the tank. Once that tank is clean I should be able to move onto the secondary water tank and then the fuel tanks. With two of us applying pressure to a tool to open the tank on both sides we were able to turn them without too much trouble. I will re-install with fresh silicone grease and new o-rings. Oyster was able to supply replacement o-rings for each of the covers and has an improved cover which is compatable with the existing threads I ordered a complete set of new o-rings, two covers, one cover tool. Large water tank has been completely cleaned with the exception of the cleanout under the nav station which I can't yet get open. However, I was able to reach into this area and clean it pretty well. Oyster notes that one should not use abrasive cleaners or clorine based cleaners as there is a coating which was applied to the tanks. Fuel tank inspection hatch over pickup tubes replaced Fuel tank pickup filters inside the tank - Not sure if this is what I want for a setup, some pictures through the fuel, will need to look carefully when the fuel tanks are significantly lower. 18) Bilges 18A) New "Gulper IC" based bilge pump for the lower sump 18B) Gulper IC for catching rainwater from mast before it gets to the main bilge. 18C) [100% Complete] Strum box for emergency dewatering using aft bilge area and main seacock (engine, gen, fridge, air conditioner) the total flow rate is significant! 19) Alarms on holding tanks\ 19A) Install float switch in forward holding tank and alarm 19B) [100% Complete] Wire float switch for aft holding tank into panel 20) New hatch boards 21) [ 30% Complete] Replace leaking hot water heater pressure relief valve Projects which are currently on the back burner... Davit Support Structure - Rust and pulled away fiberglass makes these rather suspect. Fortunatly the davits will not fit in the slip. So davits currently removed which removes tempation to use them. Steering Gear Upgrades / Renewal New Autopilot Tiller Arm - Hopefully two of these one for each autopilot Rebuild Rudder Stops 2nd Autopilot installation - Mechanical or Hydraulic? Grease steering system Insulated backstay antenna installation Install deck shower (w/warm water) [ 50% Complete] Replace washer/dryer with 60cycle version which is not rusted - Removed old unit Upgrade fixtures in heads/galley - I am definitely interested in the "touch on/touch off" system available from ???? in the home water faucets. Especially for the galley this looks like a great idea! Checked with Oyster and have information about which fixtures they are installing by default. Replace lenses in deck hatches - Just replace the hatches! Headliner upgrade throughout boat - Deinitely want to use "Harpoon" which was a great material on LB^2 Upgrade countertops in galley & Heads (Granet? Corian? Avocite?) Perhaps backlit? Digital controls for fridge and freezer (computer monitorable and preferably controllable) Aft stateroom TV/Computer screen - Eventually most likely a OLED screen only because there are no high quality 26 - 30" displays available, 32" Samsung led backlight display (6500 series) will just fit! Cost is about $1100 and coming down rapidly. This will happen soon after the aft stateroom is varnished. Main cabin TV - Currently Samsung 40" LED backlite 7000 series ~$1600, new series 40 inch display has thinner besel and should be released in May 2010, expect price to be about $2000, it exists, it is 3D! And fits very nicely. I just have to get up the nerve to drill 4 holes which are 8mm in diameter in the forward saloon bulkhead! They are on about 16 inch square pattern and should end up under any other art which would be on the bulkhead. If I were building the boat from scratch I would make a lift for the TV from behind the settee and have some very thin metal art on the bulkhead. Perhaps will use a high quality projector showing through one of the vent holes for the radio (which are not needed) to project on a screen which could be hung on the forward bulkhead when in use. This would avoid having to drill holes in the beautiful bulkhead. The new OLED screens are becomming available this year!!! Perhaps they will be light enough for easy mounting without four huge holes in the bulkhead. Improve Mainsail Furling line handling moveable foot switch to make furling the mainsail easier - makes a one person operation with friction pin friction pin for outhaul line when furling - makes a one person operation with foot switch Perhaps use a laarger diameter stopper to make sure end for end splice will always go through it cleanly. The biggest reason for things not going smoothly is the end for end splice getting stuck on the back side of the current line stoppers. Aft head dehumidifier? At the moment a more useful tool for a liveaboard would be a dedicated dehumidifier for the aft head to pull moisture out of the shower area after taking a shower. Being that there is engine room access there also it could be used to dry out both. Ideally it would have the ability to be drained into either the shower sump or the sink sump. Interestingly, if the exhaust air was plumbed into the air conditioner ducting that would provide for airflow to the saloon and provide general dehumidification. Alternately getting the air conditioning system to work without freezing up and a method of getting the condensate out of the boat work without taking up additional space.