Winter Projects 2011

Winter Projects 2011
With the completion of the 2011 Commodore's Cruise with the Corsair Yacht Club it is time to get on with the larger winter projects. This summer I have really been able to start enjoying the boat and having larger groups of friends come sailing for the weekend or the week. This winter will be focusing on a combination of the remaining cabin sole (the varnish is becomming very thin in areas) and infrastructure. Currently in the downhill run to getting ready for Wild Bill's raft up in Newport Harbor. Event is April 1st so I am down to two months to finish the projects in progress and put off the additional ones for next year. Bottom paint is still "good", driving factor will be the last point in time I can apply copper bottom paint in California. Don't want to be an early adopter of new technology paints. Looks like we should get 3 - 4 years out of bottom paint. The seacocks are still all good, the use of Lanocoat worked very well. No leaks yet and everything moves after almost 3 years. 1) Varnish, more varnish, and yet more varnish 1A) [ 95% Complete] Cabin Soles. The selected varnish build up for the sole is three coats of gloss varnish (the first coat thinned heavily), the second coat moderately thinned, and then one or more coats until a clean free sanding coat is achieved. The key being a smooth surface without fish eyes or other holidays. These coats provide a flexible base which fills well. Then a minimum of 5 coats of rubbed effect varnish are applied for durability. The durability of this varnish build up has been very good and getting the remainder of the sole completed for protection will be a focus for this winter. [100% Complete] Forward Head - Board is in very good shape Complete (1 Board) [100% Complete] Forward Cabin - Boards are in good shape, varnish should go quickly (3 Boards) [100% Complete] Forward Bunk Cabin - Board is in very good shape but difficult to get up (1 Board) [100% Complete] Forward Hall - Boards are in good shape but will require some work due to bare spots (3 Boards) [100% Complete] Saloon Sole - The floorboards are rather snug and so it is vitally important to trim the edges carefully (11 Boards) The boards in front of the engine and engine cover required significant work to deal with fish eyes [100% Complete] Galley - These are probably in the worst shape on the vessel. There are several deep dings which were sealed up quickly as they are not discolored but will require filling with a clear epoxy to get smooth (4 Boards) [100% Complete] Aft Cabin - These are in good shape but need attention very soon, there are a significant number of minor dings which will cover completely and be invisible (5 Boards) [100% Complete] Aft Head - These are in reasonably good shape, there has been some moisture under these boards and so careful drying and sealing will be needed to ensure the new varnish stays good. There is not any significant permanant damage to date. (1/30/2012 - Currently two coats of gloss varnish applied with one to two more coats to get a clean sanding surface prior to moving on to rubbed effect varnish these two panels were pulled down almost exclusively using single edged razor blades being pulled across the surface. The ability to remove old varnish in a very controlled was is very good we will see how these look when finished) Will apply a minimum of 5 coats of rubbed effect varnish 1B) [ 0% Complete] Trim around Cabin Sole - These are solid teak and can be recovered without damage so not as high a priority at the moment. 1B) [ 90% Complete] Companionway Stairs - need minor touch up of some scratches in the varnish and glue down the last piece of treadmaster Trim - Lower corners need to deal with fresh varnish which has lifted (1/8 inch either side) Exterior - Has 8 coats of gloss and is holding up well, definitely need to get a couple of coats applied this winter for additional protection 1C) [ 75% Complete] Interior bulkheads and cabinetry [ 95% Complete] Forward cabin - Some touch up required for faint scratches from the holding tank installation. - The weather was not ideal when the final coat went on, it would be nice to apply one more coat to the cabin eventually [ 0% Complete] Forward Head - Some minor delamination of the teak venear which can be reglued without too much difficulty [ 0% Complete] Forward Bunk Cabin - Some bare wood under hatch will require care otherwise will not be difficult [ 0% Complete] Forward Hall - Existing varnish is in good shape but will soon need attention [ 90% Complete] Saloon - Table, cabinetry under table, and floorboard under table are yet to be completed [100% Complete] Galley - [ 0% Complete] Aft Cabin - Varnish is in relatively good shape, there is some moisture discoloration very low in the port and starboard sides which will require some attention. Otherwise the existing varnish is in pretty good shape [ 0% Complete] Aft Head - In general the teak is in pretty good shape and will not require alot of work 2) AC Power System Rebuild 2A) [ 0% Complete] Convert to single phase power from shore power or convert to 240 split phase, currently running 208 Hopefully Mastervolt will release their "Multitap" version of their 7KW switch mode isolation transformer so I can get the electrical system upgrade underway. After two years Mastervolt says the device is not yet out of engineering... This is unfortunate as I have been waiting for this device. I suspect I will in the end get a Victron Energy based solution and a custom transformer from "...", most likely able to consume 50A at 240V, 50A at 230V, 50A at 208V, 100A at 120V, and 100A at 104V. The output of the transformer would either be single phase 230 / 240V or split phase 240 depending on how it is wired. For the time being I will plan to wire it as single phase 230/240V, however, if I decide to convert to split phase 240 (which would require a new breaker panel) both the transformer and the Victron inverters would work fine in either mode. For the 240V split phase an additional "AutoTransformer" is required to balance the phases. Thought is to have both a 110V connection (perhaps 110-50A with a 110-30A adapter) and a 208/240 connection (which could be used with 230V 50hz with a special cable). If the mastervolt auto-transformer becomes available this would result in 110V-50A making 230V-25A available on the boat, 110V-30A making 230V-15A available on the boat. 240-50A would provide 230-64A and 208-50A would give 230-42A onboard. The hop to the boat with a much shorter (and more important lighter) power cord. If use toroidal Isolation Transformer probably a 50A @240, 50A @230, 50A @ 208, 100A @ 120V input taps, with output taps for 230/240 single phase AND split phase. The transformer would weigh about 130lbs. 2B) [ 0% Complete] Two shorepower plugs These are both in marginal condition (at least the internal contacts. I expect to replace both and all of the shore power plugs). Ideally the new "smart" power connector will be available for 50A 240 volt shortly. These have thermal sensors which disconnect the power in the event of an overtemperature conditino on the plug avoiding burned connectors. Planning to put shore power plug on dock step. This would allow the power cord to run from the dock box to the dock step and then make a short cable to connect. Alternatively run the shore power cord into the dock box and then back out without having to make a connection inside of the box. 2C) [ 0% Complete] Inverter / Charger upgrade. Current plan is to use a single Victron Quatro 8KVA unit. I had thought about two 5KVA units for redundancy but it turns out that an 8KVA Victron unit will fit in exactly the same position as the existing McClarron 30A @ 24V charger. The DC power runs are very easy and the locker is already vented cleanly to get heat out of the locker. The position will require running high amperage AC lines from the isolation transformer (under the stbd settee) to the inverter and then back to the AC panel, the power from the generator will have to be re-routed but otherwise the huge DC runs will be relatively short and provide an ideal location for fuses so it is probably a good compromise. This unit will provide 200A @ 24V for charging. For the current 440AH bank at 24V this would be a bit fast for charging (i.e. about C/2) and golf cart batteries prefer to be charged no faster than C/4, however, AGM batteries can easily handle C/2. I will either be converting to AGM or Lithium batteries depending on the stability of the Lithium technology and the cost. If Lithium the bank can be expanded by a factor of two and be charged at higher rates so the larger charger will be welcome. Also, the 8KVA generator should be able to drive the charger to full capacity with a load of about 28V * 200A / 0.8 efficiency = 7KVA = 87% of maximum load. 3) [ 50% Complete] Rebed all of the fittings through the deck, repair any damage caused by water intrusion into the deck or below decks (starting with aft stateroom) Aft Stateroom 3A) Hinges and Latches for deck lockers - Looks like access is relatively easy from the aft stateroom. The latches appear to have lost much of their crome plating, it would be nice to find a plating shop to redo them or purchase new fittings, whichever is easier 3B) Rebed three vent fittings - Looks like tricky access from aft stateroom but achieveable, note that vent fittings appear to have lost much of their crome plating, it would be nice to find a plating shop to redo them or purchase new fittings, whichever is easier Aft Head 3C) [ 25% Complete] Port Intermediate Running Backstay Attachment - By removing the washer / dryer I now have access to this one 3D) Air actuated pressure switch for port electric winch 3E) [ 25% Complete] 3 cleats Dec 6, pulled all three cleats, deck is not cored under any of the three. Need to make good backing plates and decide if I should replace the cleats or send out for clear coat anodise pulling forward most resulted in small scratch in the paint which will require touch up. Like the port side, need to determine if they will be replaced or sent out for clear coat. All 6 cleats are identical. Need to determine which size of stainless steel cleat that Oyster currently uses is most appropriate. Plan to order a complete set. April 2010 - Need to decide if I am going to use the new stainless cleats from Oyster which they are using on the new yachts. The bases are different and will require some paint touch up unfortunately. July 2010 - Decided to go with the new cleats from Oyster, just need to decide on the appropriate sizes. At this point I need to develop the capability to acceptabily touch up the decks from scratches and nicks anyway Selected and ordered 6 of the 8" Arch Cleats Galley 3F) Starboard Intermediate Running Backstay Attachment 3G) Rebed Air actuated pressure switch for starboard electric winch Salon 3H) Dodger tie downs [known leaks] 3I) Coach roof fittings 3J) Main Salon Opening Portlights - Both of the forward opening windows need new gasket seals, used a bit of silicone to stop the leak on the port side where the cut of the gasket was open to let water in for rain A very small amount of silicone on the port opening window (only the top) has stopped the leaks, will plan to replace the gaskets in the near future but the boat is dry! General fasteners 3K) [ 50% Complete] Toerail fasteners (120 out of 210 fasteners completed) [some evidence of leaking observed] Note that there are several (perhaps 10 or 12) of the total toerail fasteners which are self tapping and go into bulkheads or the tops of foam filled stringers. These will continue to be self tapping AND will be slotted screws rather than the phillips head bolts used for the rest of the toerail to indicate in the future that these screws do not have a backing plate behind them. These are all single screws and great care is being taken with the throughbolts on either side of these. It appears that some form of "mastic" was used to install the toerail which is still pliable, however, has a strong oder when there is stagnent water present. A small number of these bolts (1 in 4 or 5) show evidence of minor leakage as evidenced by light corrosion on the nut or tip of bolt inside the boat. A very few show minor telltail signs of a minor leakage onto the fiberglass just under the bolts. In each case the water was contained and evaporated rather than getting into wood. Most of the fasteners are tight and the nuts can be backed off without holding the bolt from above but a limited number (not always the leaking ones) spin freely requring a second person to remove the nut. In the original installation a 1" finder washer and a nut were used, after installation the nut and washer were coated with gelcoat as a "locking compound". The replacement bolts are 6mm x 35mm x ?pitch, a 1.25" diameter 1/4" hole thick fender washer, a 6mm fender washer (about 1/2" diameter), a 6mm lock washer, and a 6mm nut. The original bolts are removed (not more than 4 or 5 in a row due to the flexed toerail), a 90 degree countersink used to clean up any corrosion in the aluminum toerail, a tapered reamer is used to clean out the hole, the aluminum countersink is treated with alodine, allowed to set for 30 - 45 minutes then wiped with fresh water to remove any residual salts from the chemical prep process, gorilla tape (heavy duct tape) is placed on the backside of the hole and the hole is filled from the top with white 3M 5200. The entire treads and countersnk of the bolt are then coated with 3M 5200 and slowly pressed into the hole until it bottoms on the gorilla tape. From the inside the tape is removed and the bolt allowed to drop down, the large fender washer has one side coated with 3M 5200 and pressed against the back side of the deck lightly (it will hang in place for a couple of minutes, the uncoated 6mm fender washer and lock washer quickly follow and generally will stick to the bolt long enough to get the nut on the bolt. After the group of 4-5 bolts all have washers and nuts lightly installed I then tighten the nuts to just beyond finger tight (compress the lock washer just enough to hold the bolt in place if you try to turn the nut with your fingers without a wrench). I then set the orientation of the head of the bolt so that one line of the head is lined up with the run of the toerail (patially for asthetics and to know if I accidentally move the bolt when I perform final tensioning later. The head of the bolt is cleaned up with careful wiping on deck without the use of solvents. The nut and washers are also cleaned up sufficiently to avoid later drips. This is then allowed to partially cure for 1.5 to 5 days and then with a second person holding the head of the bolt carefully (use a good screwdriver and a wrench on it) the nut is fully tensioned. If the person on deck can call out the first indication of back tension and then the strong tension of the final torque that is helpful. This is normally about 1.5 to 3 turns of the nut if everything goes together correctly. The goal is to put the sealant under pressure and with the core still wet force sealant out into any remaining voids. Note that over the next couple of hours the sealant may ooze onto the deck or from under the washer/bolt on the inside so pay attention to avoid cured 3M 5200 on the teak interior in several places. Aft Cabin Toerail Bolts Replaced - All are complete at this point Saloon Toerail Bolts Replaced - All but the nav station bolts are complete Forward cabin Toerail Bolts Replaced - Note that three bolts just aft of the rib half way up the v-berth on the stbd side showed some moisture. Additionally there was minor moisture penetration into the top of the rib which was dryed out and several small holes left temporarily into the foam core (brown foam) of the rib to allow continued drying. Eventually I will come back and fill the void with either thickened epoxy or expanding foam depending on compatability with the existing foam. Then the self tapping screw from the deck side will be drilled out, filled with epoxy and the screw inserted with mold release to form a good seal, then back out the screw while the epoxy is green and re-install with 3M5200 to ensure a permanant seal. Recently got into the linen cabinet on the port side aft of the forward cabin. Definitely seeing about half of the bolts having some corrosion, luckily planning to replace all so I just need to get on with this. 3L) Genoa Tracks These go from the aft head into the salon and from the galley into the salon It looks like the wrong bolts were used at the last re-installation or that they were installed incorrectly as many are cocked up 3M) May have to replace all of the small hatches to avoid leaks [no leaks currently] Assuming that new lewmar ocean series hatches will fit into the same cutout new hatches are probably the right answer to avoid long term leaks. It may be easier to replace the seals and the lenses. These are quite inexpensive (less than $50/hatch for both! So rather than trying to pull the small hatches I will probably continue to use the existing ones. 3N) renew all of the seals for the deck hatches (may send out all of the hatches for new lenses and seals professionally) [known leaks on most hatches] It appears that the modern Lewmar hatches have the same base pattern (not the same bolt pattern) rebuilding the existing hatches is at least 70% of the cost of new hatches. Plan is to limp the current hatches along and then replace all of them as they become unserviceable. It appears that by digging out the existing silicone on the aft hatch and refilling carefully with high quality silicone I have stopped the primary leak. Fall 2011 Update - Aft hatch over the aft bunk is leaking again. This time applied 3M4000 UV (white) to the top of the hatch covering the edge of the metal frame and the edge of the acrylic. This appears to have stopped the leak again. 4) [100% Complete] Get both heads fully functional 4A) Install 2nd Raritan Marine Elegance Toilet in aft head [100% Complete] Remove old head and all hoses and equipment [100% Complete] Rebuild platform which head sits on [100% Complete] All new hoses to holding tank [100% Complete] New waste pump for overboard discharge - whale gulper [100% Complete] Replace full alarm switch in holding tank [100% Complete] Clean holding tank completely [100% Complete] Run new vent hose for holding tank (Did not do) Air injection system for aft holding tank - Chose not to due to inability to service the air stone in the tank [100% Complete] New vented loop for discharge pump [100% Complete] Order and receive new toilet - Identical to forward head, Seafresh option and smart control [100% Complete] Make new splashback for the toilet area [100% Complete] Plumbing new toilet intake and connect to holding tank system [100% Complete] Electrical wiring for new toilet and update electrical system New fuse based sub panel in aft head to run toilet, sink drain, etc. [100% Complete] Finish aft tank vent line installation [ 10% Complete] Install salt water option for aft head - Pump, Strainer, Throughhull, Intake Y valve, Pickle Container, Vented Loop [ 0% Complete] Varnish teak backstop for toilet [ 0% Complete] Seal cabinetry around toilet for good cleaning 4B) [ 10% Complete] Rebuild aft shower stall [100% Complete] Obtain access to underside of shower pan [100% Complete] Order Whale Gully IC (SG8484), delivery expected Jan 26th 2012 [100% Complete] Install Whale Gully IC in shower pan, install pump, plumbing over the side, etc [100% Complete] Install permanant access hatch in shower pan [100% Complete] Reinstall trim in shower stall around edge [100% Complete] Finish trim in shower stall, do I sand and leave bare, use one of the "dressings" [ 0% Complete] Install new shower head, perhaps a large style raindrop shower from the ceiling, this would be truely decadent but use quite a bit of water, would need alternative hand wand [ 0% Complete] Install temperature controlled water controls 4C) Sink drains in aft head [100% Complete] Aft head sink may need independent sump system or an automatic control for a Whale Gulper Plan is to use a two port whale IC like in the forward head and galley, both have worked extremely well all year without any hickups. A question is how to gang two pumps onto the same exhaust without any issues. Don't want back seapage, Perhaps a check valve? [100% Complete] Order Whale Gulper IC (WM8484), delivery expected Jan 26th 2012 [100% Complete] Install pump under floorboards in head compartment 4D) [ 75% Complete] Remodel Forward Head [ 0% Complete] New shower head with positive temperature control [ 0% Complete] New Shower Curtian [ 0% Complete] Seal seams [ 0% Complete] Headliner Velcro [ 0% Complete] Complete installation of toilet platform (forward part needs screwed together) [ 0% Complete] Complete floor installation [ 0% Complete] Remove, polish, and reinstall rub strakes [ 75% Complete] Finish forward holding tank sensor for Hart Tank monitor 4E) [100% Complete] Find Aft Head water leak under floorboards - Appears to be two sources, shower pan and leaking water from washing machine feed lines 5) [100% Complete] To solve the problem of the galley sink potentially overflowing I will use one of the Whale Gulper IC pump kits ( WM8484 ) which has two ports to pump the sink drains over the side. This pump will go from the drains of the sink to the gulper two port manifold, then two the gulper pump, up through a 3/4" vented loop on the inboard side of the galley and then over the side through one of the two 3/4" seacocks under the galley sink (the other will most likely be the intake for the watermaker so the drain outlet should be higher up on the hull to avoid oil getting in. 6) [ 75% Complete] Replace all lighting fixtures with LED fixtures 6A) [100% Complete] Replace all Festoon bulbs with LED from Imtra using Warm White 6B) [ 0% Complete] Replace all 9 reading lamps with Imtra reading lights Forward Cabin - Two Traditional Brass Reading Lamps (Large) Bunk Cabin - Two Traditional Brass Reading Lamps (Large) Main Cabin - Three Traditional Brass Reading Lamps (Large) Master Stateroom - Two Traditional Brass Reading Lamps (Large) 6C) [ 0% Complete] Install new overhead light (was red light) in nav station - Perhaps Oyster has one they have removed? 6D) [ 0% Complete] Find replacement switch for the forward cabin switch which had been replaced with something which did not have the same form factor. Hopefully Oyster can get one of these for me. 6E) [ 0% Complete] There are 10 of the 9" long flourescent fixtures. MarineBeam.com has a drop in replacement (which does require minor wiring changes to bypass the ballast. These are $32 each. Make sure they are the right ones and get them ordered. 7) [ 50% Complete] Replace navigation lights with 34 series AquaSignal LED running lights. [100% Complete] Masthead Tri-Color [100% Complete] Port deck light [100% Complete] Stbd deck light [ 25% Complete] Stern Light (purchased, not installed) [ 0% Complete] Steaming Light (not yet available 6/1/2010) 8) [ 10% Complete] Repair / Replace Windlass Tom just installed a 1500 series windlass from Lofrans which looks to be a much more refined piece of gear compared to the Lewmar which he had. This brings the choice to an easy replacement as a Lofrans vertical or use a Lighthouse horizontal. The 24V version of the Lofrans should be sufficiently strong. Troy recommends using stainless chain if having a problem with chain pile rather than the lofrans device to help lay the chain out in the locker. Stainless chain is smoother and thus does not tend to have problems piling or binding up. By the time you re-galvanize steel chain a couple of times you could have had stainless for the whole time and no rust. Plan on 300 foot of chain and 400 - 500 foot of line behind it spliced together. Tom promised to provide some feedback about how well the manual override on the Lofrans works which will be the deciding factor if I use the same winch - Appears that a winch handle into the top of the drum will pull in chain with a fine ratchet like the Lighthouse windlass I had on LBB - Will get the template for the windlass and if it will cover the hole I will probably just get one. Wiring costs will not be insignificant. Current work to date has been to get the existing windlass to work in manual override acceptably. Interesting that Lofrans will not sell the stainless version in the states 9) [ 10% Complete] Spring Haul out, Being that she was last hauled May of 2009 I will assume the need to haul again in the spring of 2013 to go through all of the Blake seacocks and re-grease them. Haul is set for Thursday Nov 29th, 2012. Two coats of bottom paint, three at the waterline and leading edges. Pulling at Windward in Marina Del Rey. Also having a survey completed for insurance and re-finance. At this point the following items need to be completed: 9A) [ 25% Complete] Dripless Packing for propeller shaft - Definitely put this one on the next haul out, need 1.5 inch shaft and 2.5 inch stern tube. Cutless bearing is not in stern tube so no need for the water injection, the current system is truely irritating! Should go ahead and order, this is a 1.5 inch shaft and 2.5 inch stern tube system. (need to absolutely determine if this is Imperial or Metric for the shaft. Time to get the calipers out and check carefully. Purchased 2.5" stern tube / 1.5 inch shaft version. Looks like clearance will be tight but workable. (the issue is exposed shaft portion. Will have about an inch of exposed shaft after the bellows is compressed. 9B) New studs for zinc anode - Definitely need to complete this on the next haul out. 9C) Seacock Maintenance Dissassemble each seacock, inspect bores, use thickened epoxy (JB weld?) if necessary to fill in corrosion and then rebed Grease all of the seacocks using "Lanocote" which has worked quite well for the last 3.5 years, seacocks are a bit stiff to move but have not leaked at all once snugged up. All seacocks are still moving and not leaking at Dec 2011, the "Lanocote" has worked really well. 9D) [ 10% Complete] Wax hull from toerail to waterline (have quote from Windward) 9E) If can match color close enough do some gel-coat repair if not live with it - probably live with it, if repair will potentially look like damage 9F) Re-Do Cove Stripe 9G) Re-Do Boot Stripe 9H) Tear down Max Prop and rebuild May want to send to PYI for rebuild 9I) May need new cutless bearing? - Planning on replacing both, should be 2" OD and 1.5" ID 9J) Knotmeter Transducer Replacement CS4500 - P17 from airmar looks like it might fit into the existing throughhull!!! 9K) send shaft out for check of straightness. 10) [ 5% Complete] Electronics Upgrades for 2012 10A) [ 0% Complete] Additional Electronics upgrades AIS Transmitter, Probably the COMNAV Class A unit 10B) [ 10% Complete] Install cell phone booster to masthead antenna 10C) [ 0% Complete] Complete coupling of FM radio to TV antenna 10D) [ 0% Complete] Find better location for file server, perhaps behind the drawers in the nav station on a shelf? 10E) [100% Complete] Debug issues with knotmeter and/or replace, confirmed that it is the sensor not the displays by having two displays hooked to the same sensor and they both go bad at the same time. 10F) [100% Complete] Install new GPS sensor - Purchased but not yet installed, plan to install under seahood to keep out of the weather if it can see reliably through the solid fiberglass of the deck in that area New sensor does see through the deck just fine. Using GPS130 unit with NMEA 2000 to seatalk bridge. 11) [100% Complete] Better Name on back of boat!!! 12) [100% Complete] Rebuild existing freezer compartment to avoid moisture damage. Currently drying wood and cutting away rotted wood. Currently all of the bad wood on the bottom and the inboard side of the freezer have been removed. The underlying foam is a dense brown foam which does not appear to be wet. To be sure I have a large number of desicant packs pulling moisture out of the closed up refrigerator / freezer, bottom of freezer is about 4" of foam (two 2" sheets) Drain line resulted in a hole larger than 1.25" through the bottom of the freezer insulation. Modern thoughts don't generally have a drain in the fridge or freezer due to thermal migration through the drain line as well as spills ending up in the bilge removed the drain line in the freezer. Will probably cut out the drain for the fridge and seal up as this is easier with the hole cut through the foam in the bottom of the freezer. Plan to add at least two more inches of foam above the existing in both fridge and freezer. Rework the door seals on the freezer to help keep moisture out Rework insulation at back of freezer.to stop moisture condensing above the freezer in the galley lockers. Might just put in a wedge of insulation for the time being and make the freezer somewhat smaller but more efficient. 13) [ 75% Complete] Install PUR40E watermaker under galley sink, this watermaker came from LBB and is a 12V unit. The cost of a large enough 24VDC -> 12VDC converter is much less than a new drive motor. If I pick the right unit it can be identical to the unit I would use for the SSB radio and provide for a spare. The watermaker is working well and producing 95% of the rate of water it ever did. this is pretty good on a 12 year old membrane which has not been touched for 8 years! 14) [100% Complete] Repair or replace valves in freshwater manifold between the port and starboard water tanks Made up a new assembly out of PVC parts and installed while working on the holding tank rebuild. New system is working very well and has significantly improved the taste of the water from the tanks. 15) [100% Complete] Update mattress in aft bunk for better comfort Make templates with new topper make by Portland Mattress New mattress fits very nicely, made of Latex Projects which are currently on the back burner... Davit Support Structure - Rust and pulled away fiberglass makes these rather suspect. Fortunatly the davits will not fit in the slip. So davits currently removed which removes tempation to use them. Steering Gear Upgrades / Renewal New Autopilot Tiller Arm - Hopefully two of these one for each autopilot Rebuild Rudder Stops 2nd Autopilot installation - Mechanical or Hydraulic? Grease steering system Insulated backstay antenna installation Install deck shower (w/warm water) [ 50% Complete] Replace washer/dryer with 60cycle version which is not rusted - Removed old unit Upgrade fixtures in heads/galley - I am definitely interested in the "touch on/touch off" system available from ???? in the home water faucets. Especially for the galley this looks like a great idea! Replace lenses in deck hatches - Just replace the hatches! Headliner upgrade throughout boat - Deinitely want to use "Harpoon" which was a great material on LB^2 Upgrade countertops in galley & Heads (Granet? Corian? Avocite?) Perhaps backlit? Digital controls for fridge and freezer (computer monitorable and preferably controllable) Aft stateroom TV/Computer screen - Eventually most likely a OLED screen only because there are no high quality 26 - 30" displays available, 32" Samsung led backlight display (6500 series) will just fit! Cost is about $1100 and coming down rapidly. This will happen soon after the aft stateroom is varnished. Main cabin TV - Currently Samsung 40" LED backlite 7000 series ~$1600, new series 40 inch display has thinner besel and should be released in May 2010, expect price to be about $2000, it exists, it is 3D! And fits very nicely. I just have to get up the nerve to drill 4 holes which are 8mm in diameter in the forward saloon bulkhead! They are on about 16 inch square pattern and should end up under any other art which would be on the bulkhead. If I were building the boat from scratch I would make a lift for the TV from behind the settee and have some very thin metal art on the bulkhead. Perhaps will use a high quality projector showing through one of the vent holes for the radio (which are not needed) to project on a screen which could be hung on the forward bulkhead when in use. This would avoid having to drill holes in the beautiful bulkhead. The new OLED screens are becomming available this year!!! Perhaps they will be light enough for easy mounting without four huge holes in the bulkhead. Improve Mainsail Furling line handling moveable foot switch to make furling the mainsail easier - makes a one person operation with friction pin friction pin for outhaul line when furling - makes a one person operation with foot switch Aft head dehumidifier? At the moment a more useful tool for a liveaboard would be a dedicated dehumidifier for the aft head to pull moisture out of the shower area after taking a shower. Being that there is engine room access there also it could be used to dry out both. Ideally it would have the ability to be drained into either the shower sump or the sink sump. Interestingly, if the exhaust air was plumbed into the air conditioner ducting that would provide for airflow to the saloon and provide general dehumidification.